Mechanical Booster Pump "making oil"

Bill W said:

OK
Got mine in the mail today, $35.00 including shipping. AMBAC # KT9062

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Looking at the pictures of the kit and the pump I just took apart I can't figure out where the o-ring and the round yellow gasket piece are supposed to fit. I took my pump apart and all i found is the seal and the snapring. I did check the TM and I don't see them on there unless they're under the "valve screw" piece on the side. Can anyone confirm?

EDIT: Ok, found the o-ring on the valve screw. Still don't see the yellow washer/gasket anywhere.

yolner said:

Looking at the pictures of the kit and the pump I just took apart I can't figure out where the o-ring and the round yellow gasket piece are supposed to fit. I took my pump apart and all i found is the seal and the snapring. I did check the TM and I don't see them on there unless they're under the "valve screw" piece on the side. Can anyone confirm?

EDIT: Ok, found the o-ring on the valve screw. Still don't see the yellow washer/gasket anywhere.

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Correct. They are under the valve screw. That yellow gasket is the "preformed packing" (Item P) on diagram 3-43 (Page 3-32).

Ok so here's my valve screw. The o-ring is right there, but no gasket unless it's sandwiched between the silver tip and the black part. Anyone know how this thing comes apart to replace the gasket? Don't want to break it.


EDIT: Looks like the silver part was just stuck to the gasket. I smacked it on a piece of wood and it popped off. Mystery solved!

So this is the one of five ways to be "making oil" with a Deuce multi fuel.
A little seal to stop from engine destruction.
So looks like to cure the problem you need a little KIT from AMBAC KT9062
Looks the same for all of the different booster pump series and same for ONAN MEP003 pumps
So see the nice pictures and read the PDF and the KIT is now on a popular site see that they are now on a auction auction site for 24 bucks delivered.
I am not sure that all this was fun but I needed to know.






View attachment booster pump seal.pdf

frank8003 said:

So this is the one of five ways to be "making oil" with a Deuce multi fuel.
A little seal to stop from engine destruction.
So looks like to cure the problem you need a little KIT from AMBAC KT9062
Looks the same for all of the different booster pump series and same for ONAN MEP003 pumps
So see the nice pictures and read the PDF and the KIT is now on a popular site see that they are now on a auction auction site for 24 bucks delivered.
I am not sure that all this was fun but I needed to know.
View attachment 702573

View attachment 702574

View attachment 702575

View attachment 702576

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Thanks Frank ! I needed to finish rebuilding a couple of boost pumps, and now I can.

They 24 bucks total each kit delivered now.
A KIT is KT9062
If you can't find it then PM me

frank8003 said:

They 24 bucks total each kit delivered now.
A KIT is KT9062
If you can't find it then PM me

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I found it right off, and then ordered three !
Thanks again Frank.

The kit I found on that online auction site that starts with an e, says it's a KT 9062 Mack model 300- is this the one I need or am I looking in the wrong place?

Gnepig said:

The kit I found on that online auction site that starts with an e, says it's a KT 9062 Mack model 300- is this the one I need or am I looking in the wrong place?

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That's the one. It's still an American Bosch PSB pump. That's all that matters.

I've also found the HH o rings on the same auction site, are the Viton one's good or should I just use rubber?
Also someone said it would be easier to remove the IP to change these parts than to move the whole engine, is this correct?

I just rebuilt the pump on my truck last weekend, I didn't move the motor at all, I pulled the drivers fender for easier access (no ladder needed). I pulled the steering wheel, disconnected turn signal, loosened the column mount on the dash, pulled the 4 bolts securing the column to the steering box and slid the column up. The steering shaft will stay behind in the box but you can remove the cover and one gear from the pump then rotate the pump housing ccw until it's nearly upside down. It wouldn't quite come out but using a prybar to push the steering shaft away from the IP just a little was all it needed to come out. It was really quite easy. Do not turn the wheel after removing the 4 bolts securing the column as the shaft will try to screw itself up and out of the gearbox, it may not hurt but I'm not sure so prob best to keep it in the box. Also be careful with the column shims and put rags in the opening around the steering shaft to keep out dirt and foreign objects.

Gnepig said:

I've also found the HH o rings on the same auction site, are the Viton one's good or should I just use rubber?
Also someone said it would be easier to remove the IP to change these parts than to move the whole engine, is this correct?

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No. Leave the injection pump alone. The Hydraulic Head comes out pretty easy after you align up the marks.

I think he is planning on doing the fuel pump too. Its really a pita to work with, with the IP on the motor.

Also gives you the chance to change out the rubber IP oil feed line. I still believe the IP can be taken out without removing fenders or radiator. Yes you have to be able to touch your toes and have a bench to stand on and lay across the fender for awhile. Yes skinny boys with the right tools have the advantage sometime.

I pull the IP without pulling the rad or fender. It can be a huge pita if you have a heater mounted there though(inner fender).

I might have an oil hose kit or two still, if interested, PM me.

Yep just lay the heater over the motor leaving the lines attached is what I did. It is tight working and not much fun but it can be done. I have a set of steps that put my waist just at the right height to be able to bend over and put my chubby belly on the fender.

Floridianson said:

I have a set of steps that put my waist just at the right height to be able to bend over and put my chubby belly on the fender.

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20mm ammo can works great for that!

gimpyrobb said:

I think he is planning on doing the fuel pump too. Its really a pita to work with, with the IP on the motor.

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I must have missed that part. I just thought he was installing 'O' rings in the Hydraulic head.

Floridianson said:

Yep just lay the heater over the motor leaving the lines attached is what I did. It is tight working and not much fun but it can be done. I have a set of steps that put my waist just at the right height to be able to bend over and put my chubby belly on the fender.

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Hey those "chubby bellies" come in handy as a buffer against things like hard fenders ! Kind of like having a built-in pillow !

I suppose that replacing the seal in the booster pump would be a good idea, thats why the question about the IP removal.

I am equipped with one of those "chubby bellies"...