M1078 to M1079 Conversion and Build

Keith Knight said:

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Do you have a list of the electrical/solar stuff you have there?

I'm starting to put together my shopping list...

coachgeo said:

sounds about right. My A0 1079 and 1078 side by side showed the springs the same in all ways. Im thinking adding Timbrens or similar to help with sway and other weight control..

Here is their manual to choose by specs... since our trucks are not in their choose by vehicle list

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found another difference..... though it may be year related. My 1078 and 1079 are 1994 but the 1079 was not shipped to Military till three years later thus may have gotten a few upgrades to newer components??

Anyway.... they way the leaf wrap the bushing on each end in the shackle is different.

coachgeo said:

found another difference..... though it may be year related. My 1078 and 1079 are 1994 but the 1079 was not shipped to Military till three years later thus may have gotten a few upgrades to newer components??

Anyway.... they way the leaf wrap the bushing on each end in the shackle is different.

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Thanks for the note on the springs. I am still using the original M1078 springs and it seems OK so far. I am figuring that between the weight subtracted from the flat bed and the weight added with the enclosure and frame section, I'm still within spec. I've only ever driven mine, so I can't really say how it might be different from one with the M1079 springs.

Small updates: I have recently rebuilt the air-over-hydraulic pump, replaced the spare tire lift cylinder, swapped some wheel valves for CTIS, and swapped the spare tire strap. CTIS is now working nearly 100%. The only issue I seem to have with it right now is the pressure switch on the wet tank is not staying engaged after the truck has been running for a little while. I plan to check the pressure and possibly adjust the governor to address that. I haven't done a lot inside the enclosure since I have been working on other mechanical stuff. I ordered some large Lifepo4 prismatic cells to build a pack that I plan to use in the enclosure for power. The vinyl plank flooring that I installed is proving to be a little disappointing. The flooring that I used has a preinstalled backing foam on each plank. Vibrations from driving and idling encourage the whole floor to shift a little bit and in hot weather then it starts to buckle. I might have to glue down one end of it or something eventually.

Here's a shot from ham radio field day back in June:


The mast is a CTM10, with a homemade top adapter to mount the AS-2236/GRC antenna. On the truck is an AT-1011 HF antenna on one side, and a Harris RF-390-AT003 on the other side.

I would say that if the flooring is buckling when it warms, it is fit too tight and you need to trim around the perimeter to give it room to expand and contract as it heats and cools… common in many types of flooring and siding to leave perimeter room to allow for expansion…

I used vinyl plank fake wood flooring (the thin stuff). I was told that it would be critical to set a 1/8" expansion gap on the edges so I did so. I secured the perimeter with 2x2 screwed into the floor to clamp it all down (the 2x2 are the base of the insulated wall I'm installing). You could secure the edge in a number of ways, but the gap is likely critical I was informed. I've driven with it for six months (in 100 degrees down to near freezing) and it's sitting pretty.

Third From Texas said:

I used vinyl plank fake wood flooring (the thin stuff). I was told that it would be critical to set a 1/8" expansion gap on the edges so I did so. I secured the perimeter with 2x2 screwed into the floor to clamp it all down (the 2x2 are the base of the insulated wall I'm installing). You could secure the edge in a number of ways, but the gap is likely critical I was informed. I've driven with it for six months (in 100 degrees down to near freezing) and it's sitting pretty.

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Your gona have to cut back on your drinkin on them slick floors you gona break a hip !

Ronmar said:

I would say that if the flooring is buckling when it warms, it is fit too tight and you need to trim around the perimeter to give it room to expand and contract as it heats and cools… common in many types of flooring and siding to leave perimeter room to allow for expansion…

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In this case there is enough gap for expansion. The issue is that I left it as a floating floor and so through the course of driving, idling, etc, the vibrations make the whole floor tend to slide a little. When it runs out of room it wants to buckle because the vinyl is thin and gets quite flexible in the heat. I think the only real fix is to glue or screw at least one side or end to anchor it and then the rest of the floor can expand/contract against that.

Oxyacetylene said:

In this case there is enough gap for expansion. The issue is that I left it as a floating floor and so through the course of driving, idling, etc, the vibrations make the whole floor tend to slide a little. When it runs out of room it wants to buckle because the vinyl is thin and gets quite flexible in the heat. I think the only real fix is to glue or screw at least one side or end to anchor it and then the rest of the floor can expand/contract against that.

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Or center it and anchor it in the middle.

Oxyacetylene said:

In this case there is enough gap for expansion. The issue is that I left it as a floating floor and so through the course of driving, idling, etc, the vibrations make the whole floor tend to slide a little. When it runs out of room it wants to buckle because the vinyl is thin and gets quite flexible in the heat. I think the only real fix is to glue or screw at least one side or end to anchor it and then the rest of the floor can expand/contract against that.

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So I just did Pergo in my basement-what it uses at the perimeter is 1/2” foam rod caulked in. Allows it to expand but not move “enmasse “

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Before I decided on what waterproof flooring I was going to use, I got samples from the box stores. Measured each of them with my dial calipers and then put them in 130 degree water then measured again and went with the one that expanded the least. Also with those dimensions you can pre determine how much in total it will expand so you know what your gap minimum would be.

Keith Knight said:

Before I decided on what waterproof flooring I was going to use, I got samples from the box stores. Measured each of them with my dial calipers and then put them in 130 degree water then measured again and went with the one that expanded the least. Also with those dimensions you can pre determine how much in total it will expand so you know what your gap minimum would be.

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So, after you did your test(s) which flooring did you finally go with? Curious minds want to know!

Going to be building out my shelter when the weather gets warmer and I’m looking at flooring now.

Thanks,
Tom.

I’ll see if I have the info still that was 18 months ago. I can say it was from Home Depot and not an in stock item.