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Weird. Magnet wouldn’t stick to mine.
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Air Flow CFM?
- Thread starter Kevin Means
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Ronmar
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magnet sticks to mine, 98 A0 With my filter relocation above the cab, I was contemplating fabbing a new one out of aluminum from turbo boot back to the duct that will run up the front wall of the habitat to the new filter location.
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If you affix the new air filter to the habitat, what happens when the habitat and chassis go in different directions, because of chassis flex? Flex tube somewhere in air inlet tube length?
I haven't got down to the air lift arch yet and haven't decided on the position of the filter. If the arch stays, then probably a structure that is welded to the arch or something around the coolant expansion tank.
I like the idea of affixing it to the habitat, but I don't know how to accommodate the chassis flex and habitat zero torsion setup
Ronmar
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I am not doing zero torsion, I am doing “roving 3 point” AKA captured spring. In my case I chose to place the two fixed points found in 3 and 4 point systems at the front of the habitat, with the 3rd roving point alternating between the two frame rails at the rear depending on which one twists upward.
I basically built the structure for the forward hab wall, like the crane lift arch, using the same holes in the frame, This will keep the front wall of the habitat referenced to the frame at this point, so like the air filters that several have mounted to the lift arch, i am not expecting much movement between there and the turbo inlet, I will use a boot on the pipe where it connects to the vertical duct. That with the boot at the turbo end should allow for engine torque movement…
I basically built the structure for the forward hab wall, like the crane lift arch, using the same holes in the frame, This will keep the front wall of the habitat referenced to the frame at this point, so like the air filters that several have mounted to the lift arch, i am not expecting much movement between there and the turbo inlet, I will use a boot on the pipe where it connects to the vertical duct. That with the boot at the turbo end should allow for engine torque movement…
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I'm curious, for the folks that are working on or have a camper build, what on your opinions on the stack mounted vs the barrel style air intake? I'm trying to get as much space possible for the habitat and was curious on the forum's opinion. thoughts?
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It's just a filter. Not that glorious or complicated. As I pointed out with the airflow - it's SIMPLY a matter of maintenance. Maintenance cost, maintenance interval, and maintenance ease.
Those are all pretty easy things to visualize in your mind. Consider every option from each of those angles and pick which one meets YOUR needs. It will likely work just fine because pretty much anything will work fine as long as it's not annoying to access or requires frequent attention.
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Not your question: As we refurbish our cab and chassis for a habitat we fail to see the reasoning for relocating the ABS, AoH reservoir, AoH controller and hand pump, ether bottle and controller, and tire crane with spare to gain about 8" of space. Moving all that is a lot of work and design and assumes you leave the expansion tank, filler tubes and dip sticks where they sit, which many folks don't.
We must be looking at this all wrong. With 22" between the cab arch and catch to the front of the cargo bed (ours is an M1078A1). Both air filter choices take up much of that 22". More than a foot, at least. For us hoping to add a 16' departure habitat (14' flat floor) leaving the original equipment behind the cab adds little to the rear overhang and improves the center of mass when measured front to rear while leaving it unchanged side to side. With the front axle already weighted significantly more than the rear. Is moving the habitat back less than a foot going to do anything but add productive weight to the rear axle?
When off road in our M1078A1 the worst scenarios we have faced are the rear end's lack of traction, (due to lack of weight back there) and its lifting up off the earth coming down deep ledges, (when the ass end starts rising up as you creep down a ledge it is an interesting feeling). Moving more weight back to better balance the rig front to back seems like a good idea.
Again, we must be looking at this all wrong. Is there a great advantage to relocating all that equipment?
We must be looking at this all wrong. With 22" between the cab arch and catch to the front of the cargo bed (ours is an M1078A1). Both air filter choices take up much of that 22". More than a foot, at least. For us hoping to add a 16' departure habitat (14' flat floor) leaving the original equipment behind the cab adds little to the rear overhang and improves the center of mass when measured front to rear while leaving it unchanged side to side. With the front axle already weighted significantly more than the rear. Is moving the habitat back less than a foot going to do anything but add productive weight to the rear axle?
When off road in our M1078A1 the worst scenarios we have faced are the rear end's lack of traction, (due to lack of weight back there) and its lifting up off the earth coming down deep ledges, (when the ass end starts rising up as you creep down a ledge it is an interesting feeling). Moving more weight back to better balance the rig front to back seems like a good idea.
Again, we must be looking at this all wrong. Is there a great advantage to relocating all that equipment?
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General I would love to see a photograph of your rig. Do you, have you, will you share?
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Sure.... But there's not much to see without looking really close because it's a 2008 M1079 A1R that I keep looking almost like it could have driven out of the Motorpool yesterday if you weren't intimately familiar with the van window sizes and that these were not equipped with awnings.
Most of the "improvements" are hidden in the details like the HIMARS parts, the camera system, the AC, etc - all largely made from military components used across the entire range of FMTV chassis variants and other related military hardware. I'm working right now on a steering wheel upgrade for example - but I'm starting with an 18" IMMI wheel that was NOS surplus for an EOD variant of the Cougar MRAP......
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Sounds a lot better than a 1949-1970 Cadillac—
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All the other newer military stuff (largely from Oshkosh) use some variant of the VIP line from IMMI. The HEMTT actually uses almost the same wheel I'm adapting and those are extremely common. Our S&S wheel was inherited from the Steyr which didn't have power steering (in all cases anyway) and as such needed an excessively large diameter wheel. I really just wanted a new wheel that wasn't covered in someone's 20 year old skin cells and oils. And I got this $300 wheel NOS surplus for $64...... it's also a game for me - how much $ can I save with surplus and still get a better result than buying some commercial Chinese crap. The IMMI wheel is made in USA.
It infuriates me that society has given up on the first two RR's. Reduce and Reuse. Americans have a death grip on recycling and as long as it claims to be "recyclable" you are free to use absurd quantities with zero shame.
Ronmar
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Yes,, 22” of habitat space thats NOT hanging off the back end of the frame
… is a bit of work, which is why you don’t compromise… remove it all and push the habitat all the way forward to the cab latch and make good use of those 22 hard won inches. Scrap the AOP and valve, I basically gave mine away and it still paid for the hand pump. Re-config the coolant expansion tank to another location, it doesn’t have to be there either… move the oil filler to the side of the engine and trans dipstick forward beside the engine. You will need a trans access hatch in the hab and perhaps a raised floor anyway incase it needs serviced so put the trans main filler back there, you can always top up using the dipstick tube… ABS can go down near the air dryer, , and relocate the air filter up on the front of the habitat above the cab, high enough to allow the cab to tilt… the cab arch means you will always have ~4.5” of space between cab and hab, plenty of room for an intake duct on the passenger side to connect filter to turbo…
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We like your build, using the top rail to add your floor joists is quite beautiful, you extended the rails rearward, right? How far does your build hang off the back end? Perhaps we have been using a 5x9 trailer so long a 14' floor layout looks huge on our garage floor. We may not need as much space as others and balancing the weight on the axles sounds quite appealing, the rear is too light.Yes,, 22” of habitat space thats NOT hanging off the back end of the frame
It looks once again, I have gone off topic—
Ronmar
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I extended the top frame 18” using the front lift arch I removed from behind the cab. That is about in the middle of the exit angle of the box so the total length from end of original frame length to back habitat wall is 33.5”. I am forecasting ~35 degree exit angle from the face of the rear tires when all is said and done… We are putting the kitchen counter across the back which will have some of the exit angle within the cabinets, as well as the structural ribs to support the rear mounted spare tire…, so a box with 17.3’ outside length will have 14.3’ of floor length from inside front wall to face of kitchen cabinets…
Air filter…