rustystud
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Agree !
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Starting new thread for same old problem.....
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msgjd
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yeah i have run into that too .. apparently a coating intended to stop storage corrosion
Brad
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Am checking all suggestions. Have installed new 24V fuel pump. Still wants to stall. Have new spark plugs and am installing, but that is not why this thing keeps shutting down.
Back to the fuel pump, the one I took off had two wires going into the harness. I hooked up the hot wire to the new one, but is the other an internal system type ground. Should I attach my ground wire to that wire? The pump I bought was for general use and was to be grounded to the frame, but is that correct for this truck?
Mr Stud, when you say ignitor, do you mean the wire that goes into the distributor??
Thanks, we are spending another day on this beast, trying to have it for Memorial Day????
Back to the fuel pump, the one I took off had two wires going into the harness. I hooked up the hot wire to the new one, but is the other an internal system type ground. Should I attach my ground wire to that wire? The pump I bought was for general use and was to be grounded to the frame, but is that correct for this truck?
Mr Stud, when you say ignitor, do you mean the wire that goes into the distributor??
Thanks, we are spending another day on this beast, trying to have it for Memorial Day????
Brad
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OK, reset points, they were too wide. Changed coil, new spark plugs, new points and condenser, new fuel pump? Still no good. Starts right up and idles fine. Soon as start down road starts sputtering, especially on hills.
Was looking at an old carb I have and there is a needle valve in it that mine does not have. I may have not noticed it, and lost it when cleaning carb? In looking at carb info sent me there is something called "pump discharge needle valve" but the drawing is very hard to see>
Does anyone know if there is a needle valve in the main body other than the one at the float?
Was looking at an old carb I have and there is a needle valve in it that mine does not have. I may have not noticed it, and lost it when cleaning carb? In looking at carb info sent me there is something called "pump discharge needle valve" but the drawing is very hard to see>
Does anyone know if there is a needle valve in the main body other than the one at the float?
Brad
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No improvement. Starts right up, idles fine, start down road, soon as a hill or grade, starts sputtering. Sometimes even on the level?
I am out of ideas, I have done everything suggested that I am able to do, or understand.
It is just a Gas engine, I am 72 yrs old and have worked on my own cars and trucks for many years in the past. (Not this new crap.) But this kind of stuff,. Fuel air and spark. I have never had anything like this. Out of ideas and darned near out of $$$.
I am out of ideas, I have done everything suggested that I am able to do, or understand.
It is just a Gas engine, I am 72 yrs old and have worked on my own cars and trucks for many years in the past. (Not this new crap.) But this kind of stuff,. Fuel air and spark. I have never had anything like this. Out of ideas and darned near out of $$$.
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Now you have a fuel delivery problem. Carb is emptying out when heavy fueling is required.
rustystud
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You say you rebuilt the carb ? That opens up a whole new can of worms. Did you replace the "piston" thingy (accelerator pump) that squirts fuel into the manifold ? There is usually a small check valve at the bottom of the bore (ball bearing usually) . Also you mention the idle adjusting screws are missing ? Did you properly adjust the float level according to the instructions ?
So many things to go wrong here.
So many things to go wrong here.
rustystud
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I have a spare carburetor I can take pictures of as I tear it down to show you how to rebuild it.
Will that help you ?
Will that help you ?
msgjd
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I had an XM211 many years ago but ran into the sputtering problem under load with a 1940s farm tractor i got at auction... Without gleaning thru this entire string, have you cleaned the air cleaner? .. I have seen where mice got inside those oil baths and they rot into muck and clog the strainer mesh quite spectacularly .. Nasty nasty stuff , almost turn the stomach
those things are supposed to get cleaned in kero or solvent at intervals , but most people neglect the task, perhaps have never done one in their lifetime
those things are supposed to get cleaned in kero or solvent at intervals , but most people neglect the task, perhaps have never done one in their lifetime
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Brad
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We have cleaned the air filter. We have actually test driven a couple times with the filter not attached to carb. I did not actually rebuild the carb. I just partially took it apart looking for crud or obvious problems. I did not adjust the float. All had worked well for years? However yesterday I took two other carbs we have apart looking to see how good / clean they looked. I noticed that "pump discharge valve" in both of them. But not in the one in the truck. So we put one in it. I may have not noticed and lost when I had it apart? Anyway, made no difference.
I am going to replace the entire fuel line today, between the rain.
I also am concerned about the dist cap, if scratched or small chips, could that cause this?? I can see no cracks, but perhaps it is somewhere?
Thanks ya'all !!
I am going to replace the entire fuel line today, between the rain.
I also am concerned about the dist cap, if scratched or small chips, could that cause this?? I can see no cracks, but perhaps it is somewhere?
Thanks ya'all !!
msgjd
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run it in the dark and watch the distributor cap (and wires) for spark jumping .. Wait,,, you said scratches or chips in the cap? Does this truck have a civilian-type distributor ?
It's supposed to have a sealed metal distributor assy, and yeah, if it has the sealed one it's gonna be hard to watch for spark jump but maybe it will work with the cover off and plug wires stuffed into the cap direct
Embarrassed to say it's been the recent years since i had to be inside a sealed one thus I've forgotten what it looks like inside !
Old age has some privileges, but short-term memory loss isn't one .. Doctor says it's not that, that it's just "occupational stress" therefore i don't retain any visual details of completed tasks in my head anytime I'm in a yank with a ton of unrelated tasks to take care of a particular day.. Time will tell
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Brad
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Just replaced entire fuel line from tank to and pump to carb with 5/16" new rubber line. No better.
Now have replaced float needle valve and seat because the one we were using (for last 20 yrs) did not have the little wire that pulls it open when float goes down.
We have tried everything except change porcelain dist cap as we don't have another one.
I am going to take our cap apart and examine it best I can. Yes, it is all original sealed military type. We bought and installed the correct wires new, about 15 or so years ago.
Also checked voltage at pump 24.8V . Voltage at ignition wire going into distributor 24.3 V. I don't know any way to test while running, everything is sealed?
There is nothing left to try that I can think of?
It starts right up and will pull out and take off for a couple hundred yards, then cut out??
Now have replaced float needle valve and seat because the one we were using (for last 20 yrs) did not have the little wire that pulls it open when float goes down.
We have tried everything except change porcelain dist cap as we don't have another one.
I am going to take our cap apart and examine it best I can. Yes, it is all original sealed military type. We bought and installed the correct wires new, about 15 or so years ago.
Also checked voltage at pump 24.8V . Voltage at ignition wire going into distributor 24.3 V. I don't know any way to test while running, everything is sealed?
There is nothing left to try that I can think of?
It starts right up and will pull out and take off for a couple hundred yards, then cut out??
Brad
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Just wondering if perhaps this new fuel pump might not pump enough, however the man at NAPA tells me it is?
It is a FACET Electronic fuel pump #610-1034, The specs are 32 gal. / Hr. 4 1/2 to 9 PSI. It says 24V right on it.
The old one we took off said 7PSI.
Since the trouble still persists, I'd think that old pump is still ok?
It is a FACET Electronic fuel pump #610-1034, The specs are 32 gal. / Hr. 4 1/2 to 9 PSI. It says 24V right on it.
The old one we took off said 7PSI.
Since the trouble still persists, I'd think that old pump is still ok?
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Suggest you remove the fuel line at the carb and route into a bucket, power on the ignition and see if you have continuous flow for a few mins.
msgjd
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i feel your frustration, chasing a ghost isn't fun .. i hope in the end it's something simple that was overlooked , probably all of us have done it
i've maintained 1970's dodge/plymouth products the last 50 years and one day 40 years ago my Trailduster had another no-fire .. For a spell all of them were famous for having occasional trouble with the electronic ignition box, and sometimes the ballast resistors .. Put new ballast resistor and box in, the boxes were expensive at the time .. No fire
Got mad .. Bought new cap, new rotor, new plugs, new wires (those were getting bad) , and new electronic pickup unit in distributor.. No fire
Voltage everywhere was reading what it was supposed to, even the "I" side of the key switch tested good. The only thing i had not replaced was the condenser .. I had never had one go bad .. Ever,, never
Even dad never had this exact trouble with a condenser on the 1950's farm tractors and everything else on tracks or wheels that had ever been on this farm.. I put the tester on the condenser and it was a dead-short to ground .. ZERO ohms, no capacitic bounce. Bingo. Who woulda thunk? I was mad as hell and out a couple hundred or so , when the paycheck was only $280-something
Still running a few 70's dodge's with the same EI setup, as well as a ton of everything else around here having points .. I have never run across a dead-short condenser since that one time 40 years ago .. What a fluke
i've maintained 1970's dodge/plymouth products the last 50 years and one day 40 years ago my Trailduster had another no-fire .. For a spell all of them were famous for having occasional trouble with the electronic ignition box, and sometimes the ballast resistors .. Put new ballast resistor and box in, the boxes were expensive at the time .. No fire
Got mad .. Bought new cap, new rotor, new plugs, new wires (those were getting bad) , and new electronic pickup unit in distributor.. No fire
Voltage everywhere was reading what it was supposed to, even the "I" side of the key switch tested good. The only thing i had not replaced was the condenser .. I had never had one go bad .. Ever,, never
Even dad never had this exact trouble with a condenser on the 1950's farm tractors and everything else on tracks or wheels that had ever been on this farm.. I put the tester on the condenser and it was a dead-short to ground .. ZERO ohms, no capacitic bounce. Bingo. Who woulda thunk? I was mad as hell and out a couple hundred or so , when the paycheck was only $280-something
Still running a few 70's dodge's with the same EI setup, as well as a ton of everything else around here having points .. I have never run across a dead-short condenser since that one time 40 years ago .. What a fluke
Brad
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Well, I think I am licked here. I don't know what else to try? I am not going to do everything again, for the third or fourth time. And I can't keep buying parts. But thanks for caring.
Brad
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If it quits rain here I am going to run that fuel pump into a can and see if I have continious flow. Also, I had removed the actual dist cap from the metal cover and looked it over and can see no problems. I am going to assemble all that, and put in a new rotor. But after that, I am out of ideas. Maybe we're just licked here?
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No way you are licked. This 302 has to be one of the simplest engines to work on, the only thing going against you is that everything is 74 years old. Back to the basics, fuel and spark.
biscuitwhistler37
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We're not licked yet. When you pulled the carburetor apart, is there any chance you put the gaskets on in reverse order? I once bought a "non running" boat with a Chevy 350 in it, carb was "rebuilt", but the gaskets were put in backwards ( throttle body gasket on intake, intake gasket on throttle body) and it would start and idle fine, but any throttle added would cause it to sputter, stall and die, quickly adding throttle and returning to idle would yield a nice sized "pop". Swapped carbs with a known good one and she purred like a kitten. Even if they're not reversed, a large enough compromise in the gasket will cause a vacuum leak and the engine to run lean, which based on all this reading is what you have going on. Don't be discouraged, we WILL figure it out.
Brad
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Problem is with the basics of gas and spark and air. It's hard cause' it runs, it ides and runs good for 200 yards then shuts down. Maybe not completely off but sputters and runs so bad it won't pull it's own weight.
As for the gaskets being reversed, that is very possible as I have had this thing apart at least half a dozen times. But what made it start running bad in the first place before I took the carb apart? It ran well for the last 10 years.
However the bottom gasket in the carb is torn a little where it spans the float area? There are two fiber gaskets and a metal one in between. I thought the metal one would be on the bottom to support that area over the float. But the other two carbs I have were the same way?
I have some good carb info I was sent from on here. But it does not really show a good "exploded" assembly view of the carb. If I had that, I could at least be sure I have it assembled correctly?
Thanks to all, it is still raining. This truck has been barn or garage kept since about 2010, not it sits in the rain cause I can't get it back to my Son's home.
As for the gaskets being reversed, that is very possible as I have had this thing apart at least half a dozen times. But what made it start running bad in the first place before I took the carb apart? It ran well for the last 10 years.
However the bottom gasket in the carb is torn a little where it spans the float area? There are two fiber gaskets and a metal one in between. I thought the metal one would be on the bottom to support that area over the float. But the other two carbs I have were the same way?
I have some good carb info I was sent from on here. But it does not really show a good "exploded" assembly view of the carb. If I had that, I could at least be sure I have it assembled correctly?
Thanks to all, it is still raining. This truck has been barn or garage kept since about 2010, not it sits in the rain cause I can't get it back to my Son's home.