Seems like this is turning into a build thread.

If anybody wanted to try those 1/2" green belts, now is the time.

CARC686 said:

If anybody wanted to try those 1/2" green belts, now is the time.

Click to expand...

That's actually where I bought mine....pretty hard to beat that price!

I've probabably put about 400+ miles on my truck since I posted my pulley and belt upgrade....

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...ay-lately-part-2.107203/page-485#post-2608090

...and so far, it's been working great....no belt squeal whatsoever. I'm definitely glad I did this upgrade. Just as a comparison, last year I put on all new regular (black) 3/8" Gates belts. They worked good at first, but it wasn't long before they started to squeal again. I'd tighten up the belts up....it would go away for a while....then the squeal would come back. I probably re-tightened them 4 or 5 times. You could tell the belts were wearing because you could see they were getting narrower, and the alternators would have black belt residue all over them.

Definitely recommend doing this.

Hard to find anything reasonably priced anymore. My belts are older than my ownership of the truck. Since they have to come off anyway while I deal with my reward for putting mechanic in a bottle in my engine, figured I'd replace them too. Thank you for the reference image. I had saved it and forgot where it came from.

In the process of pulling the damper, I noticed I'm going to have the engine pulled down to a short block fixing leaks before I'm done. If it's rubber, it's ruined. Yeehaw.

Is it true you can cut the rubber off the oil cooler lines and replace them with clamped 1/2" hyd hose? OEM has been discontinued for 16 years.

It should not be any different than having new A/C lines or power steering hoses made. Cut off the rubber lines and have napa custom clamp new hoses on.

I read in an old post that the hard lines on the ends are barbed and you can DIY it. No harm in giving it a try. Either way, it's getting dealt with.

Anybody got a trick for yanking the front main out without scratching up the crank nose?

Long ago I had a seal puller like this one. Use a small hammer with it, go around the seal from inside the lip and walk the seal out.

Pricey, ain't it? I'll pull out the oxy ace and make one.

Short list: Front main seal, harmonic balancer, rear main seal, reseal pan, reseal timing cover, reseal valve covers, oil cooler lines, exhaust manifold gaskets, glow plugs, lower radiator hose, coolant temperature sensor, radiator petcock, transmission output shaft seal, R&R all rubber fuel lines, fuel filter, weld up cracks in fan shroud, doghead mod, HD v-belts, coolant, oil and filter, reseal front diff, alignment.

I was just going to find the hemorrhagic oil leak and fix it. Things escalated. I'm sure there's more crap in my parts bin I've forgotten about. We'll see what else comes up while I'm in there. Great time to strip and refinish all that tin, but I'm lazy and this is a driver. Call it patina. I just don't know how I'll be able to trust that there are any fluids in it when it stops marking its spot.

CARC686 said:

Pricey, ain't it? I'll pull out the oxy ace and make one.

Click to expand...

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Yes it is! Its tough though...
I bought one 40 years ago.
$18.95 back in the day.

I think it's a safe bet I don't need anything to last 40 years.

If they keep appreciating at this rate, it'll pay for the fact that I've had to replace everything on it.

I notice now that the radiator fan is asymmetrical. Does the orientation matter on reassembly?