Seems like this is turning into a build thread.

[CARC686]

If anybody wanted to try those 1/2" green belts, now is the time.

 

[RattleSnack]

If anybody wanted to try those 1/2" green belts, now is the time.

That's actually where I bought mine....pretty hard to beat that price!

I've probabably put about 400+ miles on my truck since I posted my pulley and belt upgrade....

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...ay-lately-part-2.107203/page-485#post-2608090

...and so far, it's been working great....no belt squeal whatsoever. I'm definitely glad I did this upgrade. Just as a comparison, last year I put on all new regular (black) 3/8" Gates belts. They worked good at first, but it wasn't long before they started to squeal again. I'd tighten up the belts up....it would go away for a while....then the squeal would come back. I probably re-tightened them 4 or 5 times. You could tell the belts were wearing because you could see they were getting narrower, and the alternators would have black belt residue all over them.

Definitely recommend doing this.

 

[CARC686]

Hard to find anything reasonably priced anymore. My belts are older than my ownership of the truck. Since they have to come off anyway while I deal with my reward for putting mechanic in a bottle in my engine, figured I'd replace them too. Thank you for the reference image. I had saved it and forgot where it came from.

 

[Sharecropper]

Squealing belts are a positive indicator of pulley misalignment, period. The squeal occurs when a belt enters and exits a pulley at a slight angle, so slight that the eye cannot detect the misalignment. If a belt is misaligned with a pulley, it will not matter which brand of belt you buy, they all will squeal and all will eventually wear out. An old-timer aircraft mechanic taught me this back in 1985 when I purchased a brand new '85 GMC K30 Diesel and had a squealing belt. He determined that the thin alternator belt tension bracket that GM used on that engine was slightly bent from the factory. After straightening the bracket and verifying all pulley alignments, not only did the squeal disappear, but the OEM belts lasted through my sale of the truck in 1995. My advice on this forum is - align the pulleys and be done with squealing & short-life belts. I posted details of aligning the pulleys on my P400 engine here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/squealing-belts-and-how-to-fix-them.189721/ .

Hope this helps.

 

[CARC686]

In the process of pulling the damper, I noticed I'm going to have the engine pulled down to a short block fixing leaks before I'm done. If it's rubber, it's ruined. Yeehaw.

 

[CARC686]

Is it true you can cut the rubber off the oil cooler lines and replace them with clamped 1/2" hyd hose? OEM has been discontinued for 16 years.

 

[deank]

It should not be any different than having new A/C lines or power steering hoses made. Cut off the rubber lines and have napa custom clamp new hoses on.

 

[CARC686]

I read in an old post that the hard lines on the ends are barbed and you can DIY it. No harm in giving it a try. Either way, it's getting dealt with.

 

[CARC686]

Anybody got a trick for yanking the front main out without scratching up the crank nose?

 

[deank]

Long ago I had a seal puller like this one. Use a small hammer with it, go around the seal from inside the lip and walk the seal out.

 

[CARC686]

Pricey, ain't it? I'll pull out the oxy ace and make one.

 

[CARC686]

Short list: Front main seal, harmonic balancer, rear main seal, reseal pan, reseal timing cover, reseal valve covers, oil cooler lines, exhaust manifold gaskets, glow plugs, lower radiator hose, coolant temperature sensor, radiator petcock, transmission output shaft seal, R&R all rubber fuel lines, fuel filter, weld up cracks in fan shroud, doghead mod, HD v-belts, coolant, oil and filter, reseal front diff, alignment.

I was just going to find the hemorrhagic oil leak and fix it. Things escalated. I'm sure there's more crap in my parts bin I've forgotten about. We'll see what else comes up while I'm in there. Great time to strip and refinish all that tin, but I'm lazy and this is a driver. Call it patina. I just don't know how I'll be able to trust that there are any fluids in it when it stops marking its spot.

 

[Mullaney]

Pricey, ain't it? I'll pull out the oxy ace and make one.

.
Yes it is! Its tough though...
I bought one 40 years ago.
$18.95 back in the day.

 

[CARC686]

I think it's a safe bet I don't need anything to last 40 years.

 

[CARC686]

If they keep appreciating at this rate, it'll pay for the fact that I've had to replace everything on it.

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[CARC686]

I notice now that the radiator fan is asymmetrical. Does the orientation matter on reassembly?

 

[CARC686]

Welp, the engine oil wanted out and it wasn't in a mood to negotiate. I poured three gallons in it just to make it back to the house, and every lingering stop light and malingering driver I got stuck behind was cause for profanity as hasn't been heard since I was enlisted. My truck doesn't have a name, but Jackson Pollock would be apt if you could see my driveway. Let's just say nothing under the truck is in danger of rusting. Figuring it would be a front or rear main, I wasn't worried because I already had spares on the shelf. One thing leads to another. The lower rad hose was well drenched, so I figured I'd best replace it, and since I'm doing one, might as well do both, which led to my discovering so much corrosion on the thermostat housing that I thought it was epoxy at first. Wired it down to find that it was just lumpy rot halfway through all around and I ought to replace it, which is how a seized bolt ended up snapped off in the crossover pipe. That's fixed and the new thermostat is in with the new housing. Everything's gasketed with red goop on both sides. I ordered that all aluminum radiator @Sharecropper is using and it showed up today looking like a giant piece of jewelry. I would hang it on the wall for decoration if it wasn't going in the truck. I hope it cools as good as it looks. When I got to eyeballing the OEM radiator, I noticed the bushings are long since rotted away, so I ordered some from Energy Suspension today. It's a good thing I'm not in a hurry, because I can't work like I used to and every time I glance at the truck, I have to order more parts. I've got 32 Rock Auto magnets on the fridge to the 1009's credit and if I keep it forever, which I might as well, I expect 32 more. There are bad seals all over the place and I'm going to keep finding them, breaking and replacing stuff along the way. I'll keep poking at it 30-60 minutes a day and by the time I'm ready to crank it, it'll pretty much be a shakedown cruise. It takes a lunatic to use this truck as a daily driver and god as my witness, I am that lunatic.

 

[Sharecropper]

Welp, the engine oil wanted out and it wasn't in a mood to negotiate. I poured three gallons in it just to make it back to the house, and every lingering stop light and malingering driver I got stuck behind was cause for profanity as hasn't been heard since I was enlisted. My truck doesn't have a name, but Jackson Pollock would be apt if you could see my driveway. Let's just say nothing under the truck is in danger of rusting. Figuring it would be a front or rear main, I wasn't worried because I already had spares on the shelf. One thing leads to another. The lower rad hose was well drenched, so I figured I'd best replace it, and since I'm doing one, might as well do both, which led to my discovering so much corrosion on the thermostat housing that I thought it was epoxy at first. Wired it down to find that it was just lumpy rot halfway through all around and I ought to replace it, which is how a seized bolt ended up snapped off in the crossover pipe. That's fixed and the new thermostat is in with the new housing. Everything's gasketed with red goop on both sides. I ordered that all aluminum radiator @Sharecropper is using and it showed up today looking like a giant piece of jewelry. I would hang it on the wall for decoration if it wasn't going in the truck. I hope it cools as good as it looks. When I got to eyeballing the OEM radiator, I noticed the bushings are long since rotted away, so I ordered some from Energy Suspension today. It's a good thing I'm not in a hurry, because I can't work like I used to and every time I glance at the truck, I have to order more parts. I've got 32 Rock Auto magnets on the fridge to the 1009's credit and if I keep it forever, which I might as well, I expect 32 more. There are bad seals all over the place and I'm going to keep finding them, breaking and replacing stuff along the way. I'll keep poking at it 30-60 minutes a day and by the time I'm ready to crank it, it'll pretty much be a shakedown cruise. It takes a lunatic to use this truck as a daily driver and god as my witness, I am that lunatic.

If your new aluminum radiator was produced exactly like mine, it will be approximately 1/4" shorter in height than the OEM radiator. I too used new Energy radiator bushings but still had to fabricate small neoprene rubber saddle spacers to sit on top of the aluminum mounting nubs to make everything bolt-down tight. Once you get that done, all other design attributes of the new radiator are identical to OEM. I haven't yet filled my new drivetrain with coolant but should get that done in the coming days. I'll post updates in my rebuild thread over in the CUCV Hotrod forum.

 

[CARC686]

I'll see if I can't space them up with material cut from old radiator hose. That ought to last forever or near enough. Did you use the four row big block bushing kit? I assumed that would be the right one, since one wasn't specifically listed for the diesel.

 

[Sharecropper]

I'll see if I can't space them up with material cut from old radiator hose. That ought to last forever or near enough. Did you use the four row big block bushing kit? I assumed that would be the right one, since one wasn't specifically listed for the diesel.

I've had the bushing kit for so long I can't remember which one I got. It's been years...........