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The fitting is a 7/16" x 24 inverted flare. If you are going to be attaching a 04 or 06-AN hose, you will therefore need a 7/16"x24x-06AN fitting. That's what I did, in order to eliminate any possibility of leakage/air suction at this most inaccessible hose fitting. Back when I was setting up...

Please post a photo of the bent bracket so that other SS members who may have a similar condition can see how you solved the issue.

Looks like the kick-down switch is bolted in the wrong hole. Try moving it towards the firewall in the next bracket.

No, unfortunately I have not finished my truck. Even at 74 years old I've been swamped with career responsibilities and in March, my wife & I lost our only daughter to a sudden heart attack. Losing her threw a curveball in our life plans to say the least. But I have completed the new...

The 6,000 rpm is the revolving speed of the Spinner at 35 psi oil pressure, not engine rpm’s. I doubt my P400 will ever see more than 2500 engine rpm’s. Just wanted to clarify that.

There’s no need for an element. The centrifugal force of 6,000 rpms spinning the oil throws all contaminants, even blow-by carbon, against the inner wall of the rotating vessel inside the housing. The oil stays honey colored. Still should change the oil and traditional filter at regular...

That “thing on the top right” is a Spinner centrifugal oil filter. It is powered from a pressurized oil line. At 35 psi a rotating chamber on the inside of the housing spins at 6,000 rpm and contaminants in the oil are thrown outward against the outer wall of the chamber. The clean oil in the...

Finally got my Supercharged P400/765R4/241 drivetrain finished and ready to swap into my M1028. Now if I could just find the time………

The OEM oil cooler is housed in the passenger side of the OEM radiator, so in order to "replace" it you would have to replace the entire radiator. I believe what you may be thinking of is to add an auxiliary oil cooler to work in conjunction with the OEM cooler. There are many threads on SS...

I just now looked at the Ebay ad for that compressor 24v version of this with harness and saw that at 24V the compressor requires 2600W of power to provide 850W of cooling. I'm no electrical engineer so maybe somebody will chime in with how this can be provided by two 100-amp alternators...

The only things on the CUCV's that are 24V are the starter and the slave port in the grille. Everything else is 12V. You can pull 24V for your compressor off the 24V Buss located just behind the rear battery above where the VA plate attaches. Not sure how much draw the compressor will...

Rick you may already know that U-joints need to articulate in order to properly lubricate themselves. The more articulation the better to keep the internal needle bearings rolling. I keep telling you to forget the driveshaft angle and focus instead on bringing the DRIVETRAIN angle and AXLE...

See attached -

Rick the main thing you want to try to do is to keep the output shaft from the transfer case and the pinion input on the axle parallel to each other, or at least within 2 degrees of each other. That in itself will tell you what degree of shims will be needed on the axle. It has nothing to do...

Due to the arrogant tone of your posts, I regret ever attempting to assist you on this thread. For many years I have contributed to the knowledge base of this site and freely shared my experiences of restoring & rebuilding my M1028 with the other SS members. But now, I am through. I will not...

Can he Google that o_O?

McMaster Carr - Google it.

The A/C system is by Vintage Air. But you will need to figure out how to mount the compressor onto your engine. You can read my write-up here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2224882

765R4 from Bowtie Overdrives in California Bowtie Overdrives - View Item

I've got one practically brand new if you want it. I'm not going to need it with my new 765R4. Pm me if interested.