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Just remember... if all you have is a hammer then everything becomes a nail, but if you have a welder then everything becomes whatever the f*#k you want it to be!

Just from a maintainance standpoint the P-pumped Cummins 6BT wins hands down. Nothing worse than having to fix some leaking injectors that are buried under valve covers that are also buried under half of the dash. (I've had to do that to a few Duramax diesels.)

I don't believe the stud size is any different....

I think BadDaddy's talking about putting the square head nuts on first. (I can't recall what they're actually called at the moment...) Just for clarification the wheel must go on first against the hub, and then those square head nuts are what would hold the wheel to the hub. Many people...

The pic in the first post... did anyone else notice the odd turbo setup going on there?

Is it just me, or does that look like a very solvable problem? Do they always crack in that same location?

Does anyone happen to have a picture of a cracked T1138 transfer case that they would be willing to share?

Just make sure to get video evidence of yourself pouring it in. Lol

Careful... if it's not the right kind it might make your engine shift differently. rofl

You can really only make that an assumption. Without a side by side comparison with other diesel engines of the same make and brand running on straight #2 you really can't prove anything.

Non-detergent oils are still widely used in a lot of larger compressor motors and other various machinery... both in straight weight and multi viscosity. It's actually the preferred choice for anything that doesn't burn fuel.

Non-detergent? That oil hasn't been used in engines since the thirties.

Yup... those babies are custom! Looks almost like someone bolted together half of a modified MRAP 50/50 offset wheel to half of some other sort of MRAP variant.

I've used it before, and it's not that great. It's impact resistant because it stays somewhat soft. Imagine what you would get if you mixed cheap undercoating with cheap black paint. That's pretty much it. You end up with a semi soft coating that dulls quickly in the sun, and transfers black...

Epoxy primer, sand, and then top coat of your choice. POR15 is ment to be applied to metal that still has light rust present. If you're taking the frame down to nice clean metal then POR15 will not adhere as well as epoxy primer. POR15 uses the moisture present in the rust along with humidity...

Anything that you do is going to have to be custom made. I plan on double framing one of my 5-tons, but I'm going to be using the taller frame section from my M814 and welding other sections of frame together to achieve that. Why do you think you need the additional strength at the rear of...

Looks like two different trucks to me. If you could get them both for $12000 that might be okay.

Oh okay... I've only drilled through 5-ton frames before with a mag-drill, but never a deuce frame. I'll take your word for it.

I would never label third party information as proof. I have come across quite a few mistakes in those manuals before, so I would rather have seen something from the manufacturer. I just find it hard to believe that a truck frame like that would not be factory hardened. It's not like it's...

Is that true? That the deuce frame is not hardened?