Search results

I second buying shell rotella and changing it every 3000. Diesels have more blow-by than a gasser and the oil takes more of a beating. IMHO "extended oil change intervals" are not smart (money savings wise) on a diesel unless you have a fancy bypass filter setup like a big rig (and for them...

I highly recommend filling the oil filter with oil before installing. CUCV's have no warranty anyways. Also, NAPA oil filters are made by WIX. Fairly priced, good stuff. If you ask them to look up what filter you need they will probably tell you a #1061. I would personally suggest you pay $0.10...

You can use a piece of 3/8" brake line to replace the fuel line. The fitting on the pump is the same. Just have someone bend it to match. I replaced mine with a rubber line that runs off the engine to the front battery tray and along the passenger side fender (where the auxiliary electric pump...

Herculiner is pretty grainy.

Did you do any damage to the frame, body or body mounts? that must've put quite a twist on the truck..

If it's going behind a diesel (I'm assuming you're keeping the 6.2) you want the torque converter that works best for high torque & low RPMs. If you want to be sure you're getting the right part, look up at a parts place (ie rockauto.com or similar) what torque converter went behind a 6.5 in a...

If you have two good 12 volt batteries, grab some heavy gauge wire or booster cables and extend the wiring on the gen-set to the two external batteries. I've done that on vehicles when all I have are huge truck batteries and I have to start up a small car. Cover all your connections in TONS of...

^ Ditto. Synthetic oil tends to be "thinner" under most conditions - could give lower oil pressure readings.

There is a company that makes a fully mechanical valvebody for the 4l80e but you have to choose what gear you want yourself (aka slapstick, etc). I would go that route before the electric controller personally. It replaces the solenoids in the transmission with mechanical valves. You can install...

If you're at a dead stop.. then press clutch, engage 1st, and release clutch/give a little throttle.. I'm not sure how any truck could grind unless you're not completely in gear...

Hoses. Belts. Starter. Fuel pump. Do the DogHead mod - then you won't kill a starter when the starter relay goes. You can start your truck without a starter relay - just jump the pins in the starter relay holder (I've been doing that for months since the relay died and I haven't got around to...

CO2 ONLY! The ABC ones have powder and liquids in them (They hurt your eyes - ask me how I know :P), Two things you DO NOT want in your engine. Basically you need a gas that displaces enough oxygen to prevent your truck from burning fuel in it's cylinders. Almost any non-corrosive, non-flammable...

Yup, if it flowed enough CO2 to kill the engine.. You'd want a big extinguisher.. I'm thinking the tiny beer-bottle-sized ones wouldn't do it. I was thinking CO2 from a 20 oz paintball cylinder. They cost like $40 and you can fill them with Argon/CO2 off your welding rig. Or just hook up a spare...

As injector pumps wear out or get out-of-time, these trucks lose MPG's. My M1009 got 18.6 MPG out of the last tank I kept records on with the truck full of junk in the back (probably 500+ LBs) with three people in it (one on the floor between the seats) on a 230ish mile highway trip on mostly...

Delco Lift pumps are the only way to go. I had a carter one for two years, they suck. I run mechanical pumps because I like the idea of the trucks being operational without any electrical. Plus, the mechanical pumps seem to die slowly and leak first, where the electric pumps sorta suddenly stop...

If it runs better with cables switched around, it sounds like a few of your cables are shot and moving them around just got you a slightly better connection through them.. No experience on M37's, just my $0.02 - good luck.

Did you get 8 entire glow plugs out of the engine, or is there a chance a part of one is still in there?

I'd say these machines fit into the "240 volt more-serious-hobbyist" range: Lincoln: "Easymig 180"(plastic drive - cheaper)/"180 HD"(plastic drive - cheaper) "PowerMig 180t"(metal drive - better, more exensive) "PowerMig 180c" (metal drive & continuous voltage control - more expensive) Miller...

It's just a tiny bit of vacuum on the engine side of the valve, and the intake vacuum (no throttle plate on a diesel so the only restriction is the air filter, not much vacuum) on the other side. I would go to junkyard and grab some 1" ish (don't remember the exact size) preformed coolant hoses...

YES. Civvy CDR is towards the front of the engine near the oil filler.