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It may have actually melted in place and the part that is still inside is bulged into a weird shape.

Just repair the existing system. The fan blades get old and brittle and the hydraulics can leak, but if you install new parts, you will probably be able to go twenty years without a problem most likely, unless you have a bad engine mount and you don't have to re engineer anything. it's all been...

I think those horns are made by the same company that made the Beep Beep Horns for the Plymouth Road Runners. I think the company is named Spartan.

Led Tail Lights and Front Led Turn Signal Lights need the electronic flasher unit. It has smaller cooling fins on it than the old style flasher Units. Even with that, I found that I had to remove the little light bulb from the Turn Signal Unit to make everything on the exterior lights work...

Might be that TACOM tested them with the different later steering arm and the curved shape on the spindle where the spacer is and the Hub assy passed the durability test so all had to be built with all the same parts to be in spec.

The Humvee tires were installed all the same way by AM General so they are "supposed" to be that way, but when I mount tires myself, I flip them for one side so they look like they match as far as tread direction is concerned.

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/sfhmmwv.jpg

There must be some, because there were those different dash boards that had provisions for the two air gauges, switch and the repositioned air restriction gauge bracket. Special forces vehicle or something like that with no windshield glass and all that stuff. Also has a green LED in the dash...

It's not an impossibility though. Someone just has to make the gearbox and somehow adapt it to the engine.

From 1994 and on, the Hummers used a bracket to hold the two batteries against the right hand air lift bracket and above the tire. They were not using the large 6TL Batteries like the military does though, just normal light truck batteries.

You can just buy a used 218 and slap it in with little fuss and be driving again soon. Probably around two to three hundred dollars plus shipping.

The bolts for the lower half of the hinges pass through slotted holes in the brackets below. You might have to adjust one or both of them, but just check that the upper hinge halves are bolted in place properly and not damaged. Check the pins too. Maybe one is half the way to falling out.

That's a good use for a Hummer. Cannibalization for parts is better, but this will do.

The H2 wheels aren't rated for the Humvee/H1 and if you do machine the center hub area, the studs on the spindle are not long enough to safely install those wheels, so you would need to change them so you could at least bolt them on safely.

OK, Look through your TM's and find the trouble shooting section. It gives easy to follow step by step instructions for finding the common problems on the Humvee.

The original style of fuel sender units fail at the retention bolt which holds the inner bracketry to the round mounting disk. It is just the weight of the fuel sloshing against the float and working on the mounting area. Once that gets loose, readings are erratic. If you change to the later...

That is the standard Old School Turret Support setup that was used on Weapons Carriers ect. That is not nearly high enough to be able to be used for the Helmet Tops. It is normally up tight against the bottom of the roof panel. The Helmet tops are about six or more inches higher than an Old...

Yes, I think those hard door strikers that are spray painted black are home made and not USGI Surplus. Another thing to think about is that the Hard Top Humvees use a flat plate on both sides at the rear of the windshield frame to hold it in place as opposed to the brackets with the pin like...

You may have to shim the latch on the door to get to the second click without having to slam the door too hard.