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Cool... Thanks for the info. I'm gonna give it a read. Glad you enjoyed the thread, theirs a lot of good dudes on this site.

Doing a repower on my GMC soon. Question is if anyone's running a TH400 trans.. If so is it a real dog off the line with the 2.48 1st gear? I building a low compression 454, peanut port heads and a 208 duration cam. Mild motor probably -300hp, 400tq. I know a Alison or a 4l80 are the better...

Here it is.. Pardon the rust, have not had time to cut out and repair it yet.

I guess great minds do think alike!!

Thats the factory tailgate, as it left the factory. I believe drop-down gates were only on early m135 models. It is pretty sweet tho! You could fab one out of a standard gate. Wont be to difficult, its a simple mechanism. Ill post detailed pics and measurements if you want. My cab is welded...

My 51' M135 quad cab.

Thats perfect. Now just weld the front cab channels to the rear cab channel. :grd:

As u can see from the bottom pic. Your gonna have to trim the rear cab channel to clear your fuel line and vent tube.

Just USE the height change... the front cabs channels will sit on top the rear cabs front body mount channel. When i disected the donor cab. I kept the hole floorpan and channels intact, all the way foward to rite were the floor starts to angle up under the dash, cut away floor there. Cut the...

PTO/T-Case lever mount; Simply mount it directly to the floor, then readjust the linkage accordingly. Bench Seat Legs were made from the discarded rear cab corners.. Trying to keep the ''Could Have Came From The Factory'' look. Have a few more ''speed bumps'' i ran into ill post later. Hope...

Park-Break mount; Mount is 5.5'' hi off the floor. At this height you wont even have to readjust your linkage. Fabbed mine using an old jeep bumper i had laying around. Not happy with the look, but near the end of the build, i was getting lazy. If i were to do it over i would use 5.5'' channel...

Rear cab mount pics; I used 3''x1/8'' x 34'' steel C-channel for the main support. Capped both ends with 1/8'' plate steel. Reused the factory cab springs, bushings, spacer and hardware. Also had to rotate driver side air tank, to gain clearance for the pressure valve.. But you may still have to...

That's Sweet! Would be perfect for tailgating... Just an idea

Have no plans for the old driveline. If it sits around here, I'll probably end up stuffing it into a Rat-Rod or something:D I'll let u know after the swap. U got first dibs. Prefer to see it put to good use. Runs awesome, it's a beast!

Thanks, to everyone. Have to admit, I was expecting much more of a flogging from the purists. But thanks for all the compliments. I'll take closeup pics of hand break mount & rear cab mount. Post em tomorrow.

Some more interior pics.

Thanks Man. Your gonna love yours when its done. You can go to 100 car shows and never see another like it. Only problem is you have to hear people say you ''ruined'' it.

I used 2''x4''x1/16'' rectangular tubing. Mounted it up as hi as i could, without it looking to cheezy. Verry little movement when u open & close the doors.

NICE!! You could actually bolt them together using the existing holes. but cab would be to long, for my needs. Had to gusset the door pillars. weight of the rear doors would cause them to flex outward. With a hardtop you may not have that problem.

Thank you. I agree with you. It may not be all original, but i drive it almost every weekend