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I got a few questions for the gurus out there. Since I am missing the aluminum radiator crossover cooler lines, should I go ahead and order this set along with the good ole dorman lines (part numbers 625-155&625-154) After installing those parts, should I just ditch the external radiator...

Update Picking up new rebuilt engine this week I have a few questions about my oil and trans cooler situation... I took a few pictures of where they attach to the radiator. The metal ones going across the fan side are not there. And there is an external cooler installed in front. A lot seems...

Gonna replace with a cheap running 6.2 I found. Not gonna do anything crazy or expensive yet, I just really miss driving my big loud truck and want to get it back on the road. I do plan on trying to put a turbo on it one day after all that

This is so bad ass. Awesome build. And thanks for including all the good pictures. Makes me really want to give the turbo set-up a go! As I am in the states I think it would be simple enough to find the intake manifold, plenum, turbo, and exhaust manifolds at a junk yard. (Am I missing anything...

Perfect thanks so much.

This is so awesome. This will be my bible for the next couple months. I’ll post some of my progress as I go in my thread. Thanks again ! Good look with the build

Here is an example of some nearby options... This Blazer, says engine runs fine. Texted guy and he said he can’t get it started up, though. Body and cab are all shot. Axles probably good. $1500. Don’t know if that’s a good deal for something that might be total risk.

So I have this 86 m1031 flatbed. Oil cooler lines came unhooked due to improper setup—engine is locked. Flat towed it with my e350 to my friend’s shop. He has cherry pickers and a gantry we can use. If anyone knows a step by step engine pull thread to reference that would be super cool. Any...

Well, it will be a learning experience! I’m gonna use tow bars to get to my friend’s shop this weekend. Maybe I will make a thread with stages of the rebuild. Thanks for the help

I am gonna start tearing down the engine. Any suggestions on where to start- Pull oil pan off and squirt some atf into the glowplug holes er somethin?

Thanks, yeah I tried that yesterday with the glow plugs out. Not moving at all. Truck was running but then crap oil cooler line came unhooked, pissed oil and now engine is locked. Damn

I will try that, thanks. I may have bigger problems, though. I pulled the glow plugs, in neutral, and can not get the engine to turn over by hand. Used to be able to when flex plate was skipping. Am I screwed? :whistle:

Update. Went back to check the truck. The passenger side/aluminum across the radiator lines appear to not be there(?), but the skinny two(trans cooler?)on the driver’s side are intact. There is a little external cooler in front of the radiator connected to the upper metal and rubber hoses. I...

My transmission cooler line (one from in front of the radiator-am i correct?) near the overflow coolant jug came loose tonight, what a mess. It did not have legitimate fittings. Someone cut the aluminum pipe lines and hose clamped some rubber hose there. So it leaked all the time. So I guess I...

Update.. got my starter back fully rebuilt with new brushes, starter gear and solenoid. Manufactured my own bracket out of a piece of box tube. Got all new bolts, reinstalled and it fires right up.

I agree completely, seeing what happened to my truck. All of this could have been avoided if the previous owner was privy to the correct starter mounting procedure. Today I rotated the engine over by hand (which is easier than I expected) to see the flexplate spinning. Mine is only slightly...

Is this where the starter bracket (that i’m missing) mounts to? it’s the only threaded hole on the block i can find near the two starter mounting holes are. Second question, is this a trustworthy starter bracket?

Update…got the starter out. One of the two solenoid screws were missing, Starter screws were mismatched, flywheel teeth got jacked up, and the cables coming from the batteries were really not lookin hot. On top of that, there was no nose bracket to stabilize the starter. Does anyone have a pic...

I’m gonna pull it tonight after work. I’ll post some pictures to see what I’m workin with. I thought I read in the starter FAQs that the gear reduction starters don’t need shims? I am pretty certain that the nose bracket was never there and that’s probably why all this happened… I’ll order one...

Thanks for the quick reply. Any tips and tricks on removal? Isn’t it only two big bolts?