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Good morning and thank you for all your help, feels like you are going way above and beyond. I do appreciate it. I have found the “engine won’t start” section in TM “…366-20-1” and have started walking through the steps. 1. All tests are with ign. on 2. Inhibitor switch was connected. It is...

K19 pin 30 and 86 have 24v. Now TL28 has 0 volts since I replaced all the fuses and relays…and raised/lowered the cab twice. I did ring out all the fuses. I can hear k19 energize. Per your knowledge, is there anything else between k19 and TL28?

1. I replaced all the fuses (bussman) and relays (bosch) last night and should recheck voltage. 2. I had incorrectly assumed the start inhibitor switch was between K19 and TL28 (wire 54) 3. Start inhibitor has 24V with a temporarily solid copper wire (12 gauge) jumper 4. CB79 fuse is good and...

10v disconnected. I didn’t think to check connected.

TL 28 is still at 10v despite removing 1441. I’m going to start tracing it back to find the short. Wherever it has shorted is not enough to blow the fuse. if I can’t locate the short I’ll run a new line. Thanks again for your help.

Thank you so much. This is very helpful. Your response is incredibly through. 1. Inhibitor has a temporary jumper wire between the two leads. 24v was coming in. I need to verify 24v is coming out. 2.TL 28 on the top and TL29 on the bottom…if it’s getting 24v will work. 3. If I can’t get...

Reposted here from 5 ton section…Legends, thanks in advance for your help. I’ve tried to consult the TM’s but have come up short. The PO had the fuel solenoid hard wired directly to the batteries through a mechanical switch in the battery box. This meant to stop the engine you had to hop out...

Legends, thanks in advance for your help. I’ve tried to consult the TM’s but have come up short. The PO had the fuel solenoid hard wired directly to the batteries through a mechanical switch in the battery box. This meant to stop the engine you had to hop out. I’m working to rerun the wiring to...