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I would try adjusting the brake switch first.

This thread should help, has wiring diagrams with wire numbers too. Has the wire numbers as well, it’s easy to follow: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-no-power-to-tcm-no-transmission-light.217788/

I just recently went through this - maybe I can answer some questions. I added an M11xx series turret to my m1151.

Looks like a movie set honestly, like a Walking Dead type show.

Was able to get more done this weekend, over the last few weeks I finished shaping the plywood wall and epoxy priming it. I painted the wall with latex carc paint and installed it. Drilled holes for the door channels. Finished out the doors and temporarily installed them. I have both upper rails...

Part number for loop is 12338839-6

Here is a wiring diagram so you know what parts are in the system. First, I am a handy tinkerer with mechanical ability, not an a/c tech- but I fixed mine with this diagram and help from this forum. I suggest checking the rear relay, and maybe the pressure switch, but first verify your a/c is...

I recently got mine running, but to clarify is it the interior condenser unit cycling or the rear condenser/fan assembly? I’m assuming interior condenser. How are your pressures? Have you attached gauges? These will be variables that will need to be known.

I still see a little tread left, maybe a few more weeks.

Ok, day 1 went pretty good. Pic shows the parts I have so far - 3 brackets and door pulls/latches. I made a pattern of the sponson side with 1/2” plywood so it would be light and easy to work - good thing, took a lot of manipulation. Once I got it right, transferred the pattern (it’s reversible)...

So helpful, you are the best! I’ll post with some progress tomorrow hopefully

Any way someone with a rear wall could give me these 3 measurements before the weekend? About to make a pattern and wanted the rear door opening to be the right size. Door measurement would also be helpful. If not I’ll just estimate based on dead reckoning.

If you don’t plan on having a deep water fording kit the normal cdr will work just fine forever. Just plug any open hoses. Also, +1 on trading the operator manual so you don’t damage things - it’s short. Easy stuff like how to start it correctly and use the transfer case.

Thanks for the info - I’ll look at that. There is a guy selling pre cut 1/4” aluminum ones as well - my 1/2 inch comment was due to the fact all of the hardware seems to be for 1/2 inch parts, like the doors and brackets. So my comment was geared toward fitting the original type hardware. I...

I think aluminum would be too hard for me to work with as it would have to be 1/2 inch thick and I don’t have tools to cut that. My goal isn’t just to get some kind of divider, but rather build the wall and make it appear like an original.

I have found new made rear armor wall assemblies/kits, even cheaper aluminum ones. Edit: I’m adding to this post the original pages from the TM showing the diagram and the part numbers for the original components. My goal at this point is a visual duplicate of the original wall, without the weight.

lol. I will post pics when I start - this is the exploratory phase. I’ll be posting my pattern as well. This is the end result hopefully.

No lie my beer fridge is set up with the handle on the hinge side, it’s like a lock. I get everyone at least once.

My next trick, creating a fake armored rear wall so the a/c stays up front and to slightly lessen the interior noise from the rear condenser fans. Well, duplicating the rear wall but using plywood instead of metal. My truck is missing the brackets that hold it on - I’d like to use originals and...

I imagine this is what happens when military orders surpass manufacturing ability. I noticed it last week.