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I was able to insure both my 2001 M1123 (agreed value of $30k) and 2012 M1167 (agreed value of $45k) with Progressive for $512 (6month period), no restrictions.

So, what is it insured as? Recreational vehicle, military vehicle, antique, museum piece? a lot of them can only be driven so many miles and or used for specific things like parades. I would like to register mine to be able to drive it anywhere any time. Mine is a 2012

Great post to read boys, got a great chuckle out of me. Maybe and this is just a spitball idea, if you need an HMMWV after an event, make a cage and put spare parts in it and have hard copies of the TM's so you can rebuild afterwards. TCM, Start box those types of things. But what do I know....

I like this idea, I will have to do the same in mine on both sides. I am interested in what you come up with. I am just starting my build and am a long way from working on the creature comforts as of yet.

I just picked up a Rev truck and am sourcing parts to make it run again. No transmission or transfer case. I have a NP242 that needs a new cooling loop. It could be rebuilt to work I think. Are there differences in the two cases as far as splines, dimensions, or flanges for the prop shafts that...

Thanks again neighbor. I figured this was the way, just wanted to be sure before I started diving into the checklist. For code 73, if the connector is dry and tight, is it easy to drop the solenoid and replace?

Anyone?

Trying to get this thing to shift properly, stuck in limp mode. Codes are: 22 TPS sensor circuit low 73 PCS circuit Should I waste time testing the TPS and the PCS or just replace them? When replacing the TPS, does the new one have to be adjusted for it to work properly?

I am also interested to know. I didnt know there was a difference in profile so this new to me.

I can't see inside the header but I was seeing liquid on the outside of the runners coming down from the flange and head. Turns out I had a bad clamp on the fuel line there and it was being blown up on to the header.

Drove the truck a bit and the smoking stopped. Restarted it and drove it with no smoke. Let it cool off for a few hours and drove it again, after warming up again it smoked then stopped. I can only assume it is all of that oil in the exhaust system.

So after running it a bit, it looks like a freeze plug is leaking. The header looks to be wet coming out of the head at the forward end cylinders. I am going to compression test to be sure but I think the at least a few valve guides are toast on each head. still blowing smoke after it warms up.

So, are those doors one giant panel covering the front to the back or am I seeing things? Maybe they are gull-wing doors. The sponsons open up too?

Thanks, I was kind of thinking this could be it but at the same time it seemed like a lot of smoke. I’ll run it for a while and see if it burns off.

Funny you mentioned that, yes the old motor blew water and oil through the crossover, through the cat and into the muffler. When I dropped each, they were full of water and oil. GovPlanet surplus trucks are fun….lol I thought I rinsed them out pretty good but maybe this is really where it all is...

I literally took the guys word for it and dropped it in, hooked up the sensors and started it up. It has a few thousand miles on it and it had no smoke in the video I saw but it is blowing kinda thick now. I have no idea what it is timed at. I am getting a glow plug adaptor to check compression...

Just finished putting a used 6.5L N/A into my 2001 M1123. Now I have some blue smoke, maybe it is white, it is hard to tell, once the engine warms up a bit. If I take the cap off the oil filler, there is visible vapor. Is the engine roached or is there something else that may be causing this...

He is talking at the top of this forum there are threads that are "stuck" to the top of the list for easy reference.

How have these batteries held up after this process?

Thanks!