Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I appreciate that, Bill, but the one I make is a replacement for the original one, which requires a working CVT1. In herbertv2's case, his CVT1 failed, and he's considering rewiring of the system for an SX460 regulator. That regulator doesn't use a magnetic amplifying transformer (CVT1), but...
You do have the option of running something like a 12-2 w/ground to the barn from the house, and keeping the current low. A battery charger fits in the low current category. I just did a quick calculation that said if you use #12 wire, and draw 5 amps, you'll drop about 5-1/2 volts in 350...
You could certainly do the SX460 conversion. There's a recent thread or two that guys who have done it started. One is by Rustystud.
I don't know of anything easy about working on CVT1, unfortunately. If I change mine, I'm going to label every wire with the terminal it goes to, and carefully...
Delk's Surplus, possibly. I found one that a member here had for sale. You could try posting that you're looking for one. I'm sure it was just a typo, but you're looking for CVT1.
I'm curious about the failure. Was the C1-C2 resistance off? What readings did you get?
The resistor on the diode board is the one that's in series with 24VDC during starting. The overheated wire through CVT1 points to a problem with CVT1, I'd think. It's probably worth measuring the winding resistances and comparing to the specs in the manual.
Generally, when you hold the switch in the "start" position, the control circuit is wired to apply 24v from the battery through a resistor to the exciter field to get the generator making power. Then when you release the switch, the regulated exciter current should take over. This is produced...
My 003A burns a little less than a gallon/hour when supplying my whole house. I think an 002A is more like 1/2 gallon/hour.
Out here in the woods there are enough power failures that I seldom have to bother with monthly scheduled running. Luckily most of the outages are pretty short, like 1/2...
Mike, you might be interested in putting load meters next to your indoor panel. You can see how I did it in post #24 of this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?91430-How-have-you-civilized-your-MEP-Generators/page3
Ha, I can tell you they don't last more than about five seconds if you don't. I accidentally turned one on dry once. It made quite a popping sound when it turned orange and blew.
He means misfire. During the first part of your video, one cylinder was firing only occasionally. Later it seemed to fire properly and the smoke disappeared.
That's a whole lot of wiring to try to redo. I think I'd see if someone has a complete control cabinet and just swap them if you end up buying it. You should be able to do a few things like a compression test though. Just jump power to the starter solenoid to crank it. I suppose checking out...
It's normal to get a small but obvious spark when the battery is connected, as the various capacitors in the system get charged, but a huge spark is not normal.
If "yes" to DieselAddict's post, you could start by disconnecting the positive lead from the starter motor's solenoid terminal (terminal with single small wire on it), reconnecting the battery, and checking to see if there is power to that wire.
If there is no power to the wire, the problem...