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Is it heresy to civilianize a M1009? The more and more I'm looking at where I want to go with it, the more it's starting to look like a more civilianized truck. I'd like some inspiration as to where to go with it.

Update: Went and screwed with the driver's window again. The rubber is aligned all the way down the track, but the window is still jumping out. I have NO CLUE as to why, nor how to fix it.

Oh, you think my world is a bunch of knuckle busting fail now, wait till I get back from this deployment-- I'll be spending some of that deployment cash on an OD Iron Air Conditioner kit. I've heard those things are downright "fun" to install.

no, i just slid it back into place. i figured removing/reinstalling the tracks without removing the window would be a much bigger PITA. I'm HOPING that I'm able to fix the alignment issue fairly easily once I open the driver door back up. As far as the passenger door, I don't know what I'm...

So I spent all day working on my M1009, and it's worse off because of it. First thing I did was install my new dashboard. It's a decent piece, but it looks like **** right now. It's wavy and does not fit correctly around the instrument bezel. I think part of it has to do with the speaker...

I bought a new dash pad off ebay to replace my rotted one. I was expecting a much lighter gray, but the thing arrived with a very nice dark gray color on it. My original plan was to paint the dash and door panels tan for sun/heat protection, but I am really liking this gray, so I'm considering...

I slathered mine on pretty thick. my surface prep consisted of cleaning the interior pretty well with soap and water, then treating any rust, then slathering on the bedliner over the existing CARC. I didn't make any effort to strip to bare metal or anything like that. The CARC made a fine primer.

I used brush-on rustoleum bedliner from the gallon cans at Walmart. Took about 1.5 cans to do two coats from the firewall to the tailgate, applied liberally. I'm very happy with its moisture resistance and durability, especially considering the cost. It's been about a month, and there's still...

i think we're jumping ahead of ourselves here.... Question 1 should be "what issues have you had with it in the past, if any?" If it's had issues, pack appropriately to deal with the reappearance of that issue. I'd bring at least a quart of oil, a quart of transmission fluid, a pint of power...

the bolt itself IS loose, but it is normally retained in a bracket to keep from falling down into the body when the striker is removed. The bracket has probably 1/4"-1-2" clearance on any side of the bolt to allow the bolt itself to move. What I did was I broke that bracket, thus there was...

ok, cut it open and saw what i broke.... basically there's a sheet metal bracket that holds a T shaped nut that the striker threads into. I broke the bracket loose from the frame. Some beating and welding and it's back in business

ya, i think i'm in deep doo-doo....i went to change out my door striker... i got it about 3/4" out, then it felt like it broke loose, now it free spins and wiggles. Not sure how to fix this, and the TM doesn't provide any help

you were right.... the buck futters gave me pins and bushings for the S10 blazer.... got the door back on, now i gotta figure out how to fix the door striker i ****ed up

Ok, so you probably remember my thread from a few days ago about replacing the door hinge pins and bushings. Well I ended up just taking the door off by removing the bolts from the door side hinges while leaving the body side hinge piece in place. I made short work of the old pins and...

TM makes it sound like they want you to unbolt the hinge from the truck first, then from the door. it seems like it would be easier for my to simply remove the door from the hinge while leaving the hinge attached to the truck, since I don't intend to do any work on the hinge itself aside from...

that's what i get for listening to the yokel at Vatozone.... made it sound SOO easy "ya, just be sure to support the door, then tap them right on out!" bastard

so there's no way to get it out without taking the door off? sonofa....

I'm trying to replace the door hinge pins and bushings on my M1009 and I can't get them out to save my life! I spent an hour trying to get the top one out of the driver's side door and failed miserably! It gets about an inch up and then starts hitting the inside of the door. I got it about...

any good way to draw 12V in a balanced manner? Perhaps tap a 24v and use a resistor similar to how the glow plugs work, or am I asking for excessive heat doing something like that? I still haven't installed this thing, I've yet to find a good location.

I'm thinking of adding FatMat to the floor insulation. Would it be effective to apply it on top of the existing insulation? I'd rather not have to pull it all up and start over.