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Solenoids go bad a few ways. One way is the coil that creates the magnetic field to actuate the device becomes weaker at the end of it's life. When the coil cools down they usually become stronger again to some degree resulting in intermittent operation as you described.

Generally speaking, if any wiring or connection gets hot enough to melt solder that would be indicative of incorrect conductor guage or contact area size for the required ampacity as well as no circuit breaker protection being used. Both are bad ideas for the most part.

I'm also looking for one of these that broke in high winds. I think it's a duece bow corner.

It used to be a tractor and the first civy owner made a custom size bed from two duece beds. Pulled the spare tire stuff out too. The frame has been extended out the rear about 3'. Short wheel base with good size bed was his goal I believe.

I pulled eight GSS frankencab seats out of the rear. Will be sending some leather covers for minor mending to keep them in good condition. Will also be rebuilding the existing seat mounting famework. Offroading is violent in the back and requires a much beefier design...

And have room in the back of the truck for more goodies.

I'm guessing it's the fuel shutoff solenoid however the photos I have seen look different. Welcome aboard.

I'd be interested just to see the source code as I've never worked with an Arduino. Motorola 68HC11 is the last embedded platform I worked with years ago.

I learned something today, never knew about the voltage potential phenomina. I have aways used an ohm meter to check for continuity and assumed it was a resistance change in the metal causing a change in the temperature reading rather than a voltage change causing an apparent resistance change...

The solenoid valve should be on the front of the horn and have two wires connected to it. If removing the wires does not deactivate the horn then remove the solenoid valve from the horn. If air is comming through the solenoid valve with no wires connected then the solenoid valve is likely...

Thermocouples are a resistance type circuit. To test them you would disconnect both leads and measure resistance(OHMs) across the leads. If there is only one wire then measure to ground(outside of thermocouple body). The resistance should change in conjunction with a change in temperature.

-I'd hold off on pulling the alternator unless you know it's bad. Disconnecting the "engine is running" wire from the alternator should bypass the function to troubleshoot whether or not the alternator has shorted the signal preventing the starter from engaging. When my alternator went bad on my...

-Have you checked resistance across the CB you mentioned? -If a ground to a relay was overheated there is a chance the relay was damaged. -I'm not familiar with the wiring on 800s but would guess the alternator gives an "engine is running" signal to prevent engaging the starter while running. I...

Not familiar with CA but I have heard of folks modifying MV and registering them as RV. You may want to get familar with that part of the CA code if you haven't already. Best of luck.

If you are looking for brighter then pay attention to any brightness, intentisy, lumens, etc. rating during the new bulb/LED selection process. Also bear in mind that your dimming characteristics may change considerably with LED as opposed to incandescent type lamps.

There are replacement "bulbs" available for automotive applications that have LEDs and resistors built into them. You just swap them out like you would an incandescent type bulb.

It's really pretty simple after the design and it's intent are understood. As was mentioned LEDs require a resistor in the circuit to limit the amount of current(power) they draw. If they draw too much they will will burn out. When a large number of LEDs are used they are placed into...

When my PPV stuck causing the same overpressure issue, I removed it to inspect. It looked new inside so I put a little ATF in the fitting and used a small diameter steel rod to action the valve & spring working the oil into it. Haven't had any trouble with it since and that was months ago.

Low engine compression due to leaky head gasket(s), piston rings, valve seats or guides, etc. would cause a loss of power which may result in a lower top speed.