Search results

I bought their 7-ton farm jack. The first time I used it was to help lift the utility body of my 1-ton Chevy dually off the frame. The main beam was so soft it bent, permanently. This was just lifting the body! I'd owned it for more than 30 days, so no returns. I threw it in the steel...

You might want to rule out air getting into your fuel from some intermittent leak that opens up when warm. If that's the problem, it's cheaper to fix than an IP, and a new IP won't fix the problem.

You can download the TMs from here for the usual extensive troubleshooting instructions.

If you can't feel it, perhaps it's just a harmonic causing a rattle? My wife's VW got recalled due to a problem like that. The solution was to put foam rubber in between 2 adjacent body parts that normally touch. Harmonics would cause the 2 parts to "clap" against each other when the car...

OK. Thanks. I have no experience wrenching on automatic transmissions. A local garage specializes maintenance on 1-ton pickups around here. They take care of the landscapers, and they've cared for my C3500 for years. I do the basic maintenance. I use them for inspections and anything...

Thanks! Is this really the right part? My son grabbed this for me. I think it's his way of giving me a subtle hint to upgrade to the 700R4. Eyeballing other pictures elsewhere on SS, this looks like the right part to me, but I'm far from an expert. If it's not the right part, I'd appreciate...

I'm no bodywork professional. I put a lot of effort into repairing rust on an old chevy pickup. The main thing I learned is that the rust you see is adjacent to the rust you'll see soon. It's downright discouraging to see your lovely repair surrounded by rot a few years later. If I ever do...

The charging system on my 1010 was both fried and hacked. It's not clear in what order things happened, but when I got it the top alternator was fried, the DUVAC was partially disconnected, and the electrical system relied on connections made with wire nuts and electrical tape. Given that...

Thanks for the video. I decided to do this too, since my sensors are 30 years old. I went to order the part, and quickly got confused. The TM shows the sensor fits into a bushing, and the parts guys list that sensor as for a GM 6 cyl diesel. The part used in the video has no bushing...

Well, I made my 650-mile recovery run with a fried alternator and no electricity. When I started, I thought it was a tired battery, and I figured I'd replace it when I got home. I was well under way when I learned otherwise. I used a jump box to get it started, and was careful to never turn...

We have threads that recommend installing a clear fuel filter between the filter and the IP, so you can see if there's air in your fuel. They say to take the filter element out. I replaced the filter element with 4 high-power magnets, 4 mm x 40 mm alnico rods. (Neodymium magnets start to...

When you say, "and the blinker makes no noise inside the truck", this sounds similar to what happens when someone replaces their turn signal bulbs with LEDs. They don't draw enough current to trigger the blinker. The solution for those folks is to switch to a different blinker that triggers...

My target speed was 65. It was late at night and I'd been driving a long time, so I wasn't necessarily exactly on target. The remarkable thing, to me, was the state of the road. My speed was entirely unremarkable. I was cruising in the right lane in a CUCV towing a trailer, not exactly a...

Cruising North at interstate speeds through West Virginia in the dead of night, I passed over a poorly maintained bridge. The concrete in each section had sagged considerably, at least in the right lane. At the end of each sag, my entire rig went airborne, Fortunately there was no curve, so I...

An 1800W inverter feeding an 1800W appliance *might* work. When they measure wattage, there are peak (AKA surge) and continuous values. Inverter manufactures tend to advertise the peak number, since it's bigger. Appliance manufacturers tend to advertise the continuous number, since it's...

I have 2 failures that leave me wondering. They happened to others, causing them to have to replace engines, but I don't know how to prevent them. One was a head gasket failure that leaked coolant into the crankcase. The bottom of the engine seized. I'm not sure how you detect that in time...

Way to start training them young! That's experience he'll remember forever.

I tried to do this on my recovery. It turned out I had a leak in the fuel fill plumbing. So I'd fill up until fuel started to drip on the ground. That's one of the items fixed in our post-recovery refresh. Now I can fill up to a carefully repeatable level. It will be interesting to see what...

I use the odometer to cross-check the fuel gauge. When I fill up, I note the mileage at which I expect to need gas again. I also carry a full jerry can. I had voltage issues that caused my gauges to be unreliable. We've done a lot to fix that in the current rebuild. Once it's back on the...

I learned a lot from the thread linked below. The CDR valve and the oil cap work together to maintain a low level of vacuum in the crankcase, to keep oil from leaking out the seals. The oil cap gasket has to seal well in order for this to work. You can achieve this by maintaining or replacing...