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Wouldn't the pressure relief be on the actual valve, behind the cab?

Adjusting the linkages is easy, once the cover is out of the way. I cut a slot in mine to get it past that large bracket without having to take everything apart. For the stabilizers, I fixed my inoperative one (left side) by pulling the plug at the bottom off and removing what turned out to be...

I thought they're supposed to be 20 feet. Made a pair of 20' extension hoses since what's on the reel isn't always quite enough.

Most likely the pump didn't fail, but what you heard was the belt squealing. And the front hydraulics are a little weak on a good day.

I may have missed it, but why is the pump suspected to be bad in the first place? A slipping belt won't kill it, just make it not work right. Not the greatest comparison, but I wouldn't be concerned with wheel bearings or axle seals if getting a flat tire. I'd just fix the tire.

Wouldn't it be worth trying to put a correct belt on the pump you already have?

If you're hell bent on not using the stock pump, you could run a 12-Volt pump instead. Off of one battery, of course. But don't you think that these stock pumps can take a little heat? After all, some SEEs were deployed and used in much hotter weather than even Phoenix has to offer this week. I...

I'd leave the simple stock setup alone, just fix whatever minor things might need to be. Like the belt. If doing an electric over hydraulic conversion it's easy enough to buy a unit with the correct specs. And dry rot on the fittings are a new concept to me, if those are indeed what's rotted...

Wheels turning in the opposite direction is proof that the diff is not locked.

Running basically stock size Swampers on one, so no widening required. Did add an extra two inches for the wider Pit Bull tires, but that was also because I wanted the wider track, not just lower contact pressure.

Not being in the least concerned about mileage or handling, I really like the bias ply tires I use.

I'd say there's a good chance you will be lucky. My first SEE sprung a major leak on one not long after I got it. Got it fixed and left the other one alone. That was six or seven years ago.

So is this a supposedly running and fully functional SEE, or close to it? What the hell, I'm probably far from the ideal person for this, but PM me your phone number and I'll do my best to prep you for the inspection. If the timing works out, I may be willing to try helping while you're...

I never got the impression that the SEE was going to be driven. It just happens to be eight hours away by normal vehicle speed. Anyway, I wouldn't mind that drive to be able to see (and hear) what shape it's in. At least if it's a costly one.

I seriously doubt that you'd find an inspection service that would know what they're looking at, and what it's supposed to look like. Your best bet is probably to find a Steel Soldiers member that knows SEEs and bribe them into helping you. Or, get one at auction. They're fairly good at listing...

Do it. Then decide how simple it was. Or not.

I were on site and saw the complete tool set in the boxes, I would've padlocked them...and probably welded the doors shut, too. If then I didn't win the auction, I'd be out a padlock. No big deal.

Okay, I speed read the listing, but never saw any mention or photos of the tools. Got a full set with the first one I bought, but the other five had nothing. Except for the HME, which wasn't from GovPlanet. Forklift damage I've come to expect as standard issue on their auction vehicles. Most of...

Welcome! If your 'glass hood is like mine you'll need to cut two holes in it to make it lay down all the way. I used PVC caps to cover the holes, siliconed in place. Put early Jeep "hood latches" on the sides. They're actually meant to hold the windshield when folded down and has a 90 in the...

Now I feel fairly good about never having shifted my splitters out of Low, ever. If they're stuck, so be it.