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I'll 2nd/3rd/4th what everyone else has said here. Wondered the same thing myself and ended up tracing everything out to see what else was connected. I couldn't find any tie-ins to anything else so I removed it as stated above. No problems at all.
Welcome from Pennsylvania! I'm pretty new here too. I've been working on my buddy's M1008 for the past month and been having a blast with it. If you haven't yet, check out the "helpful threads" sticky, there is so much information there! Also, the CUCV TM's has all the technical manuals...
Now that shes off the battlefield the automatic courtesy lights on door switches will be quite a luxury :) I'll keep this thread updated if I come across any concrete solutions.
I love this idea. That would be so cool to do. If I can find a decent place to run the wires to and from the door I will probably do this. If so, I'll record and post my work.
Yeah I actually have two courtesy lights mounted under the dash and the headlight switch controls them as you described. All I plan to add is the door switches which are just additional grounding points for the courtesy circuit.
48cj2a- Thank you for the pictures! I found the holes you pointed...
I was unable to find a hole that would run down to the backside of the factory door switch hole. It seemed that there was either a lot of insulation in there or there's a piece of metal that blocks the vertical path completely. I'll have to really get in there and see what's going on.
Okay great, this thread is becoming near and dear to my heart as it continues to be filled with incredibly useful information. I will do just that. Now, the one thing that still doesn't add up is the gage indicated on the -20 manual diagrams and how the stuff on my truck is so small. I have like...
The ground behind the taillight housing grounds all three bulbs for that side. If the ground is bad all of the lights wont work. They do join together with all three ground wires from the bulbs to the single wire that gets screwed to the chassis, there could be something corroded or loose there...
Thank you Chaski, I think this is the move that we are going to make this summer when budgets aren't so tight and time isn't either. I do love the idea of having an automated controller that works properly and fires the glow plugs when they are meant to be fired. Good look with this idea.
Thank you guys for taking the time to spell all of this out...
At this point the entire factory GP wiring system has been removed from the truck and we're looking to put this all back together in a custom/manual configuration. We are on a budget and time schedule to get this done (still a lot...
Okay yeah we've definitely got a few plugs that aren't working because the manual glow plug circuit was not blowing a 40A fuse. Probably an answer to why she struggled to start in the cold sometimes.
So if I was to do as you suggested tim/antennaclimber, I would:
1) Connect a large gage wire...
I agree. The problem is the emergency brake assembly is in the way of getting to the highest screws on that trimage. Probably the best idea tho, I'll dig into it tomorrow and let you know.
Oh yeah.. you're right. Well I'm embarrassed; I've only looked at the diagrams 1000 times. I can't believe that I didn't realize that the headlight switch is simply grounding the courtesy circuit. Okay so all I need to do is connect the door switches to the white 156-A circuit and it will work...
The plan: Looking to use some grounding switches in the door jam to illuminate the under-dash courtesy lights and dome light. With the door switches acting as a ground for a relay, when the door(s) open the relay will close and the feed spliced in after the headlight switch will turn on the...
Yes this is correct, except the p/o didn't run a relay for it; they cut out the entire glow plug system and ran the fused (40A) positive feed to a momentary switch, then directly to the orange wires that connect to the glow plugs. Would you recommend putting a relay into this as was factory? I...
Just wanted to let you know tim292stro-
Fused the entire aftermarket electrical system with a 40A fuse at the battery and tested it last night with all accessories on at the same time (except glow plugs) and everything worked great, no fuses blew, all the wires look good, and nothing is getting...
Wiring wins
Made a few significant breakthroughs last night with this project. When we started working on the truck the Voltmeter was IN/OP, the GEN 1 light was steady on, and the GEN2 light was IN/OP completely; this ended up leaving my buddy stuck about 40 mins away from home at his...
Oh no you're fine and I appreciate your contributions to this. I just wanted to clarify for anyone else reading so they know they don't need to "dumb it down" for me.