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+1. The passenger side alternator MUST be an isolated ground alternator. It doesn't look like that one is. If there is a grommet there, it's very hard to see, but your problems would make sense if that alt isn't an isolated ground unit.
Awesome Warthog, thanks.
My next question - the supply to the switch is supposed to be constant hot? Because with the truck running, I wasn't getting any voltage to the switch. That's why I wanted to know about that connection I saw in the diagram. If it's supposed to be constant hot, I'll need...
The fuse is working properly. I checked both ends of the fuse in the block with the test light and there is voltage on both ends.
GEN1 light does not come on when I first turn the key. It only comes on when the blower motor switch is turned on, truck running.
I haven't discounted the fuse...
I'm diagnosing why my blower motor switch isn't getting any power. Using a test light on the 12v supply wire, I'm getting nothing.
Fuse is good. It's a new fuse. The old one melted away, but I cleaned out the socket and replaced the fuse. Since GEN1 is working, I know the circuit is good.
I...
^ I'm going to do that as well. I picked up a Dorman on-off-on switch from Auto Zone last night... 4 bucks, and it's a 3 way. So this way, I can wire in a low and high speed. I'm already having issues with my blower switch so I'm just gonna go ahead and bypass it altogether. I'm not gonna waste...
After the drive home, I checked the voltage on the battery terminals again. 14.1 and 14.5. So it looks like the alternators are finally doing their job. Is there a reason why it was only reading 12v this morning, like the regulator is on a delay or something?
Started it this morning and drove it to work.
When I first got it running, I checked the batteries and alternator.
Front battery: 14.5v
Rear battery: 12.5v
Driver side alternator is putting out 14.5v. I didn't check output of the pass side alternator, but I suspect it's not good. I already...
Right, that's what I've learned from today's experiences. I replaced the fuse, but right now I have the front battery on a charge. So right now, I don't have a definite answer on if it was fixed since I haven't driven the truck yet, but chances are pretty likely that it is.
My worry is why the...
Alright so I re-attached the ground wire to GEN1. We'll see if that fixes the problem. Right now, batt 1 is on a charge. I drained it a bit with all the electrical testing I've done.
As far as the instrument lights - no fix yet. We'll see after the battery is good to go, but nothing has...
Title says it all.
I got this wonderful '86 M1009 about 3 weeks ago. It's an awesome truck. My first time owning a 4x4, a diesel, AND a MV. Still working out a few electrical kinks but it's pretty solid. 58k miles. Sits on 33x12.50s; truck is pretty much stock otherwise. Bottom half of the body...
Ah, gotcha. The "isolated ground" concept is still pretty new to me, so I'm definitely learning something new every time I get under the hood of this thing. Sounds like I know the next step.
After that, the instrument light problem is next.
Here are pics of GEN1 and GEN2, respectively
EDIT: On second thought, the previous owner had made a ground wire for GEN1 that ran from the rear of the alt, to a bolt that was bolted in the bracket right above the alternator. I removed it since 1) he didn't really sound sure if it did anything...