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Thanks for all the info. Will definitly get magnets. Wasnt sure about the front diff but I have some KW posi additive I think will work. No more than its driven synthetic is probably a waste of money although I would consider it if it was a DD.

I am going to change the gear oil (differentials) in my m1028. Are any additives or friction modifiers needed or recommended? Has anyone ever used synthetics and are there any benefits? Thanks

Mine did the same. Autozone sells body panel shims in packets of various thicknesses. You can shim the front fenders and/or doors til they are back in adjustment. The bolts that hold the fenders on are easy to find. Took me about a half hour and its easier to do with 2 people.

The 6.2 was a diesel design from its inception. The 5.7 GM diesel was used from 1978 to ( I believe) 1983 and it was Oldsmobile gas 350 modified to be a diesel. It was a disaster and badly tarnished the diesel engines name for many years with the American public.

I bought mine with only 6000 mi on it...no rust, perfect sheetmetal,seat, dash etc. But I dont think it was ever serviced or maintained. It still had the original fact. oil filter and probably the original engine oil, which was low and very dirty. The condition of the body(no rust) was most...

Dont forget to tab the infamous killer dowel pin on your 12 valve. The information I have from Cummins says that this locating pin poses the greatest risk in 94-98 12 v motors, but has also damaged some of the earlier 12v with the rotary pump.

You can purchase a rubber replacement made by Blachford from JC Whitney that is close to OEM for 79.99. I have installed several and was happy with the results. Also, I replaced the original insulation mat beneath it with closed cell foam matting as it does not hold water, unlike the original...

One other thing...Ford used this wheel until 1997, Dodge until 1993 but Gm only to 1987. Starting 1988 the bolt patern is the same but the offset entirely different and doesnt bear much resemblance to the wheel on your truck. These should be very easy to find and very inexpensive...less than...

The bolt pattern is 8x6.5. It is a common bolt pattern that was used for 30+ years. A civilian wheel is identical. Any GM 16" 8x6.5 will work as will any Ford or Dodge 16" steel wheel, although Ford/Dodge may have a slightly larger pilot or center hole to accomodate the larger flanges on Dana or...

Batteries are good but Im concerned they are being overcharged. My voltmeter reads at the very high end of green. Battery terminal voltage readings with engine running are now consistently about 15.5vdc each and collectively about 31.0 vdc. Do I need to have the alts rebuilt or the regulators...

I tested my batteries today. Engine off the front is approx 13.0vdc and so is the rear. Engine running the front is approx. 14.5 vdc to 15.3 vdc and the rear is the same. Is this normal resting and charging voltage?. The reason I checked it is because the gen 2 light will periodically flash on...

I drained my insufficient 2.8 pts, checked for metal contaminants or worse...found none. Refilled it with approx. 4.75 qts. Test drove it. No apparent leaks or damage so I will assume it was caught in time. So much for the Chilton manual.

One commonality seems to be fill it to within 10mm of the fill plug regardless of the source so i guess thats what i will do. Good thing 208s are cheap.

i just rechecked chiltons and found two footnotes that contradict themselves...one says 10.4 pts, one says 2.8. i would be inclined to believe the first number now. wonder why the case hasnt destroyed itself.

yeah.. maybe it doesnt leak cause its nearly empty.

it doesnt seem like enough to me either. i havent had any problems but im calling a reputable transmission shop tomorrow to find out for sure.i believe it would hold quite a bit more if you filled it to the top plug but do you fill it to the top plug?

i drained my 208 tcase. it had about 3 pts in it and doesnt leak. my chilton manual for 84 to 87 says 2.8 pts for civilian 208 case. i hope its right cause thats all i put back in it. also online autozone tech info said the same. anyone know for sure?

can i assume that is the battery closest to the radiator? i would figure the disconnect should install in the neg cable that goes from the front batt. to the firewall lugbar as the only other neg cable returns to the nato slave from that lugbar. thanks

i want to install a napa battery disconnect.do i need to unhook anything prior to doing this on my m1028? btw great site. have had several mv's but have learned more on SS than i have in 20+ years in the auto business.