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I see the situation is unsat....here's what you do.....
make sure you batteries are fully charged.....put your starter back in. hook up your remote starter button to the starter terminals. Pull the converter cover off. Get a flashkight, turn it on....take a sip of beer....but in this...
Afteryou get the block where the filters screw to.....just keep getting the same type of filter that it came with.......its differert #'s for the diff. manufacturers.......but a universal base....unless you use Detroit Diesel, or Stanadyne.
As far as the plugins.......one is for the winter...
Thats a definite possibility.......also check and make sure you started bolt threads are tight....sometimes they'll wollow out and the first time you start it....it'll scoot back and cause that. Also....check and make sure the bolts are under cut on the bolt dia. between the head and the...
Check out Racor....if they're not to your liking....Trans-dapt carries a full line of spin-on fuel and oil filter blocks that go down to 10 microns. If you want quality...get stanadyne heater and filter all in the same unit for about $100, You can even get them with a built in lift pump and a...
Oh...if anyone gives you any lip....go online and order what you need from Racor or Trans-dapt..... they carry both remote fuel filter blocks and oil filter blocks with spin on filters down to 10 microns.
Yo can go to any large truck repair place, or even Tractor Supply....get the block and filter...but you'll have to plumb up the hoses yourself. I always use Stanadyne fuel filters and blocks myself....you can get them with built in heaters/ lift pumps/ filterchange indicators.......but you can...
Yea S.M., the block heaters are nice....I had to put 2 in for my friends....(steak dinner as payment!).....
Go to Tractor Supply....they should stock them....or go to Kats, and get their lower radiator hose heaters or one of their tank style heaters........
I run a 1500 watt tank...
DogHead and the General are the Men!!!! Yup....don't let the little silver relay burn your wiring harness up!
ALWAYS carry a wrench in your glovebox to undo your battery terminal at the front battery....just-in-case...
Let me also add, sometimes the motorpool folks repair the crossover wires that come out of the main light harness, almost directly below the puck bottle on the drivers side of radiator.
When these trucks are run....they'll 'puck' coolant onto those wires.....and it'll insulate them...
Yup....can't tell....I'd say if it were cracked.....you'd see oily residue around it....unless its a fresh one. Clean it off with a wire brush mounted in a drill or die grinder....then go to Fastenal and get their mil-spec dye type crack check kits.....
Some freezing of blocks look like that...
Yes...you can install the kits yourself if your mechanically inclined....just keep things superclean....these puppies spin at 50,000rpm+, they can come apart on you.
If your not experienced a good turbo or diesel repair place will do it for you. Also....you might check into injectorpump or...
Certain injectors allow more fuel to be squirted directly into the cylinder, also some allow a finer mist that allows better combustion. Propane injection allows at least 30% better combustion of your fuel. Believe you can get these thru Gale Banks.....
Injector pin puts more fuel (in your IP)...
Both the Generals....do EXACTLY as they told you....or your gonna have to drop and give them a bunch o pushups.......
The CUCV's aren't friendly to the novice, unless you got a wrench of many years experience....(me)....alot of parts you can use civi-parts....though you gotta know whats been...