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I found this. Maybe it will help.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/75505-cucv-wiring-diagram-color-except-m1010.html
EDIT- I've searched because I would like to know too. The only thing I can think of is trace wires and see where they go which you may not be able to do because of the engine...
The only other thing I would say is check your flexplate the next time you have to remove the starter. Mine had a bad spot and it was worth the time to replace.
You can get good military battery connectors and custom cables fairly cheap. Just watch the size of the cable ends and measure the...
The gear reduction starter uses a different brace or bracket than the original direct drive. Some don't catch this. I also found the battery cables have to be connected good and clean. One of my negative cables had rust under where I could not see until I changed the cable connector to the...
The spare tire part is what will be hard. You could move the spare tire holder back after installing the hitch. I just took mine off after half of it came loose going down the highway. Moving it back would have worked, I just decided not to do it.
Make you one of the brackets and mount it...
You can probably buy the fusible link wire locally. If not EBAY and others have it. Here is a link so you can see what it is. I am not pushing this company, just showing what to look for.
Dorman Products 85766 Dorman Electrical Wire & Cable
To be honest my 12 volt 8 gauge wire from the...
Every time I try to be nice I get stomped on so I'll just bow out of this instead of saying what I am thinking.
:popcorn:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/60319-putting-tach-6-2-a.html
OK, after reading and price checking looking for the best buy for the dollar I ordered the SOLID diff covers for front and rear.
My next question is it was always my belief to use gaskets when I can and not sealer because they last longer. What do you recommend?
..and thanks for all the...
That was my answer when that happened to me. Mainly the negative connector on the front battery and corroded cables was the culprit. I swapped mine with military connectors and special ordered 2 guage copper cables. It made a huge difference.
From the Wiki
I found 4 Wheel Customs has them too. Is this the right kind? There are different splines for the front. The search says yes, please confirm this for me as I am... :)
My front differential cover leaks at the drain plug and my rear is just ugly. What kind should I buy? Dana 60 cover for the front and 14 bolt for the rear? I am looking for heavy duty more than shiny.
Nothing really. I was tracing cables under the hood trying to understand what everything does and thought maybe someone who converted to 12 volt could rig some jumper cables using the slave receptacle or maybe a winch or something.
EDIT- The jumper cable idea is probably more work than needed...
The CUCV Slave Receptacle is 24 volt because the batteries are connected in series. If the batteries were connected parallel the slave receptacle would be 12 volt. Am I reasoning correct here?
Cool, thanks for the comments. I will be reading more about the 47RH trans. It still seems if I am never going to tow past 5 ton the 4bt is an easier swap, but I will keep learning. I was reading where one guy occasionally towed 13,000 with his 4bt. All I care about is up to 6,500 lbs...
:) LOL, agreed. Another reason the 4bt caught my interest. I still would like to know if you can swap a 6bt without electronics. I am in a learning process is why I ask.