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Looks good so far. I'm sure you have a good reason, but why are you bringing the wires in the top instead of keeping everything going in and out of the bottom so it's hidden?

I think I'd smile and nod and back slowly away from that guy.

Take a look at some recent testing I did with my MEP-003A. Specifically, I measured the output current of the voltage regulator with the generator's main breaker off, at different engine speeds. Since in this system the regulator reduces its output when it wants to increase AC output, it is...

Best of luck with your surgery. I'm sure I'm not the only one pulling for a successful operation and full recovery for you. OK, now I get what you mean about the generator, thanks. I'll put some thought into that. It almost sounds like there's a shorted output, but as I said, with the 400...

Just click the little icon of a picture, 2nd from the right in the quick reply box. Then click "select files". Then you can choose the photo from your computer and upload it. When you say "will go to full load", exactly what do you mean? Why are you really sad today?

Sorry, I was thinking of the control cabinet. It looks like the differences are mainly the reactor and the current transformer. I would not expect things to work correctly with the wrong ones in the circuit.

I'm trying to understand your last post, but (sorry) I'm confused by "I placed a 400 hrtz on mt acquired set from Maryland, started genset up, went right to max hrtz on dial" and "Took my other dist box on my personal 10 kw put it on other set ran fine". LuckyDog's post is on the money. By...

No problem with the vertical scratches you can't feel. Perfectly normal wear.

If you're a ham and operate in the HF bands, the filters might come in handy.

Thanks Jerry. Jim, the printer is really neat. There are different types. This is an $800 MakerGear Prusa Mendel kit. It extrudes plastic from a nozzle and the X,Y, and Z motors drive it around to build up the part. The laser imaging type that harden liquid resin do much higher resolution...

My MEP-003A's hour meter quit. Rather than buy a replacement 2-7/8" round type, I got a more commonly available and cheaper rectangular one from eBay for $14.95 delivered. Then I drew an adapter and my son used his new 3-D printer to make it for me.

I agree that the D722-E is a three cylinder engine. Also in the specs I found, it's rated around 18 hp at 3600 rpm. If the generator you have needs to be turned at 1800, that engine won't even come close to handling the job unless you use something like belts and pulleys so the engine can run...

With 100% efficiency, you'd need 16.02 hp. Assume you'd need at least 20. A bit more is good.

I don't think the resistance of the tube will matter. It might matter if the incoming warm fuel gets sucked up and back to the injector pump immediately, but the two tubes would have to be pretty close together to get much of that happening.

You can get an idea of what they are from the Tiny Tach web site: http://tinytach.com/diesel.php

I've heard good things about Tiny Tachs. A lot of guys get a Kill A Watt meter for about $25 and plug it into the convenience outlet. It has a digital frequency display. I've used the little Chinese DC-DC converters that have cast finned housings in the past, and they don't last very long...

I bet you can get your money back on the ones you don't need if you want to. It sounds like some of the guys here could use them.

Yes, good idea. Strips of inner tube rubber will not only give a little cushion, but help avoid corrosion between the frame and the naturally alkaline concrete. That's particularly important if the 005 has an aluminum frame like my 003 has.

I'm thinking I might make some Crayon marks on the concrete pad and see if there is any movement of the generator during test runs before going to the trouble of bolting it down.

Thanks for that. It's interesting that you would give a bigger credit for the parts than the whole unit, but I understand that it takes labor to remove parts.