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Mike, when Ray is asking about the brand of pump, the easiest way is to look on the bottom of the pump while it's on the machine. The Bosch models will have a big flat head set screw on the bottom. The Ambac units have the flat head set screw deleted. The bosch are impossible to rebuild. I've...

Clean the reconnection switch with electrical spray 1st before you do anything else.

Check out the link that chainbreaker shared above. It has all the filter numbers in the link.

I use 34r from Oreillys and turn the battery around so the terminals are away from the engine and hold downs.

Fully loaded .5 gallons per hour so 10hrs. Under very light load you can get up to 14hrs. I've done a lot of testing on the 802a and 803a's for fuel consumption.

Poccur has a huge amount of knowledge with these so listen. I assume someone retro fitted the screw on terminals because I havent seen them on a HDT unit. The ones that screw on probably go to the slave receptacle which are not needed unless you wanted to jump it off.

Unfortunately if someone is too lazy to read the instructions on the item they are installing, they shouldn't be doing it. We post to give guidance not to make an instruction manual. The AVR dip switches are for different voltage configurations, because someone doing it in 240v configuration...

I think it would be a great idea. I've never seen 1 person ask about paralleling the larger sets.

The part circled in blue is the pump. You have to unscrew it so you can pump it

Unscrew the top.

Im sorry I was thinking of the bulb pump. I have replaced the hand pump in the referenced picture. I googled the tm part number and found it on Amazon.

I buy my hand pumps at Oreillys autoparts. They have them in the marine section.

Peter, lookup "Bar-Diamond" configuration for single phase conversion. PM me for more information as I'm still in testing phase for conversions.

It should be showing some kind of voltage with those readings. The rotating diodes inside the head are known to fail. Easy access below the gauge cluster. Have to take the panel off the back of the head to gain access

Yes sir that is it.

From the 24v breaker to the monetary push button. From the push button to the resistor, after the resistor, the diode, then from the diode to F1 buss bar. I did put the exact same diode going from f+ on the vr to the buss bar F1 to make sure it wouldnt back feed and hurt the VR. F2 is connected...

I could never get the jc- Looks like you have it correct. Did you check the glass fuse on the VR?

I have someone that made a couple for me. Exact replica of the original if anyone is interested. They would be around $75.

Can you take a picture of your VR setup? Also make sure the glass fuse is still good on the VR. Very 1st thing to do is make sure while your pressing the push button your getting voltage to F1 on the buss bar. If its getting DC power, it will produce some sort of voltage as long as the gen head...