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I don't know the model numbers off the top of my head, but the forklift for an HMMH uses the same mounts, as does the dozer blade for an HME. And I would imagine that there are many other implements that also fit, since the MB 4-94 I recently sold had the same style mount, in addition to the DIN...

Well, I ran a low flow skid steer snow blower that way for a few winters. Keeping it at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm to make the 'blower run efficiently understandably made the fans come on, though. That has only happened once or twice while using the backhoe. Should be easy enough to add capacity to the...

Not hydraulic related per se, but the 419 can accommodate a dozer blade or a forklift in the front, not only a loader. For the rear, instead of the common backhoe, also a crane or trencher. But the size and shape of the toolboxes won't allow things to to be completely interchangeable between...

For electrical I use various products, including but not limited to, CRC stuff. When a penetrant is needed, nothing seems to beat 50/50 aceton and ATF.

After reading the TMs, and maybe the owners thread (where all these things have been addressed), you should consider running over your can of WD-40 and get something that works. The world of Unimogs, and especially the FLUs, is not a Better Homes and Gardens environment.

Thanks, guys, this is great info. I really appreciate it. Ironically, I had already thought about making the front axle not automatically lock in, since I prefer 2Low on most things. Would've never guessed it'd help things. Maybe the hardest thing for me to learn will be running the engine at...

Thanks! It would've never occurred to me not to back up in Low. Most of my stay-at-home vehicles are always in Low. Ideally 2WD Low. By rear PTO I guess you mean the winch, and that the reasoning is to avoid creating heat. I'm a low rpm person, so I'll have to keep that in mind.

Alright, so I recently bought an M936A1 and have been trying to read up on what makes those things tick. It'll primarily be used to move a few things around, such as containers, and also to get my FLU 419s unstuck as needed. It wouldn't surprise me if I get volunteered to get other people's...

It's the typical Case 580 over-center design, so the boom can't reach the lock without reversing the flow right before it runs out of travel. And it's not an rpm issue. I prefer locking it at idle. Less noise, less stress on the parts involved.

Ether smells great, I think, but using it for bead seating can be an acquired taste. When shopping for a bead blaster, avoid the ones with a normal ball valve. The good ones have a "trigger button" which releases all the air now.

You need a good bead blaster...or starting fluid. With the tire off the ground, of course.

I don't think I tried to attach a photo. Anyway, did buy one this morning, and it'll hopefully be here in a couple of weeks. It'll be interesting to see what kind of trouble I can get into with a vehicle that weighs nearly 40,000 lbs.

Okay, so I sold a FLU or two, and an M1031, but it looks like I'm getting an M936 to get the other stuff unstuck with.

I removed all the tools and bits, and the tray, since there are other things that are more useful to me that are kept in the toolboxes. Anyway, if I wanted the bits and things still in there, and nicely separated, I'd cut out foam for the job.

I'd start with cleaning the area, then look for the highest point that shows signs of oil on it. After all, gravity affects the fluids in a SEE, too.

There are photos of home made versions in the "owners thread". It's a very easy tool to make. For now, use a screwdriver of the correct size.

You're welcome. I happen to know since the HMMH lost 4WD in a rare case when I needed it. Got out and heard air escaping at a front wheel. Replaced both hoses and have had functional 4WD since...as far as I know. At least there's no pressure loss.

Not sure what vehicle speed would have to do with it. It really should be the engine rpm that counts. Either way, as mentioned, I've spent many hours with the PTO engaged while driving at about 2,000 rpm. In First gear low range, but still.

Why would that be, with open center valves? Besides, I've driven mine quite a bit with the PTO engaged, or the snow blower wouldn't have worked.

Check the small rubber hoses at the front wheels first. Easy enough to do, and I've had two go bad.