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Optilube is what I use in the 3500 in the summer. Depending on when I get fuel delivered for things that stay on the property, like the FLUs, the supplier uses Howes if it's a fall or winter delivery. Not wanting to mix different brands, that's what I add to the tanks and vehicles as needed, too.

I don't know if the 911 is bad for the injectors, but it's not something you should use unless the system is already gelled up and you need to get going NOW. Regular anti gel can be used all the time without hurting anything. It's usually mostly a lubricity additive that also has anti gel...

If it's a Ram, it must be a 2010 or newer. Those should not smoke, no matter what (if it's stock). I have disconnected that potentially troublesome grid heater on my '17, and it still doesn't smoke much (a little bit, maybe for two minutes) at -10 or less. How much, and what kind of anti gel...

It wasn't the anti gel that made it smoke. They can put out quite a bit until warmed up, even when it's only zero degrees. Lower temps yet results in even more smoke.

For the FLUs it's not an issue. I have to put anti gel in the storage tanks when the fuel is delivered, since the supply generally lasts me a couple of years. For me, the odd one is the Ram 3500. It's driven so seldom that I often end up driving on winter fuel in the summer, and vice versa.

It's been discussed in this very thread. But unfortunately I don't remember in what literature the gas was mentioned. And yes, diesel #1 is what the winter fuel is referred to as. If you lived in a colder climate you'd get #1 in the winter whether you want it or not.

Well, when it's recommeded in the manual (for winter use), it could be considered approved, I'd think.

Mine starts in subzero weather all the time, without using the built in ether setup. But one of them injects some ether at every startup all by itself, which I don't mind since I like the smell. Anyway, since the factory included ether injection, it can't be all bad to use starting fluid. I'm...

In today's market, even $8K may not be bad at all. And it does have a hood. Unless the electrical system is ruined by rodents I'd go for it...if I wanted another one.

It's just a strainer. But a very expensive one.

When I change the fluid, first I retract as many cylinders as far as possible, then drain the tank. In your case I'd run the hydraulics for a little bit, then repeat the procedure. After all, hydraulic fluid is a lot cheaper than the parts it's operating in. And much easier to change.

Yes, it does indeed take a while for the gauge to show pressure. At least as long as it does to lift the loader and get the trans in gear. But like Migginsbros pointed out, it sure sounds like the engine has oil pressure even though the gauge isn't showing it yet. In the beginning it felt...

Oh, and there's one thing I'll do my best to remember for next time I drive that one in -10 temps, or less. Instead of raising the loader and driving off within a few seconds of starting the engine, I'll let it run for a minute or two first. After all, the fluid (whether SAE 10 or AW-32) isn't...

Not sure if I ever operated that one at around -20, but it seems that it can start foaming at around -10. In the rear, the outrigger cylinders leak, and have ever since they were subjected to some serious mud immersion, but the rear system has never acted up. In the front, there's a little...

All I have to do is shut the engine off for maybe five minutes (since in my case it's the front system) and the fluid goes back to normal. Although, this last time I didn't even do that. Whatever was going to leak out already had.

Considering that the fuel tank was literally full of water when I got that one, maybe I shouldn't be surprised if there's some in the front hydraulics, too. Then again, it got new hydraulic fluids asap, so who knows? I can live with it puking once per year or thereabouts.

Is it something like this that makes you think there's water in the tank? One of mine has puked out about a gallon three times over the years, and I suspect that it's just aeration due to cold fluid since it has only happened when it's around -10 or less. For whatever reason, that's the only...

How did you determine that there's water in the system? And is it the front or the rear system?

Not really. I have wrenches, and wire. Driving to somewhere where they sell Power Probes sounds like work.

Being lazy, as usual, I test the fans by bridging the thermostat on top of the cooler. Removing two bolts and using a jumper wire is so easy that even I can do it.