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That's the perfect repair! One that fixes itself. I started chasing potential ground issues yesterday, ran out of time, and today is lube day. Have two horse graves to dig and once down in the river rock (about four feet down) it gets a bit demanding on the machine. Would be a miserable task...

Thanks, but I ordered a switch rated for over 300 Amps continuous to use with the winch, so as long as the factory switch handles keeping the gauges and starter operational , I should be good.

I have extremely limited internet access these days, so can't say if we're talking about the same switch. But there's only one master switch as far as I know, so it should be. And yes, they're not expensive at all.

Sorry, never got to it yesterday, but the one I bought (from somewhere, a few years ago) is a Bosch 0 341 001 001-001. More important, perhaps, is that I don't remember how I came up with that P/N. It's not based on looks alone, that much I know.

Hmm. I bought a new switch for the first SEE, since that one seems to be acting up. I can post the part number later and maybe you can confirm if it's the correct one or not. Anyway, shouldn't everything go off when the light switch is turned to "everything off"?

My shunt's still there, but only because it's hard to get to. And after seeing how corroded the through-the-frame connector below was, I'm surprised that anything works correctly. I'd like to hook the positive cable for the winch to that connector, but have so far only managed to get the nut on...

Then it sounds like the HME would be the perfect version for you. Those look like they're made to be at Burning Man, as delivered.

I'm not in the least concerned with paint, unless it somehow makes the SEE work better. And I ditched the dismal incandescent work lights for cheap LED versions. One of my smarter modifications.

To me, the diagnostic system as a whole is a lot of useless wiring and hardware. Of course, I'm one of those who when getting a new-to-me or new vehicle start removing things I don't need or like. Unlike most, who add things instead. And when I do add something, like the "extension hoses"...

I haven't got around to it yet, but it sure seems like there's some 3,000 feet of unnecessary wiring and other stuff that could be eliminated...which would make the FLU more reliable.

As I recall, it serves some sort of purpose in the diagnostic system, and also as another source of leaks. Get rid of it. Oh, and welcome!

Question for those who have either tilted the cab, or pulled the plate between the seats. Curious where the cable from the master switch ends up. As in where it's grounded to whatever it leads to. My reason for wanting to know is that I'd like to hook up the negative for a winch I installed at...

Hmm. I never removed any pulleys, just changed the belts. And that power steering tensioner isn't all that fun to adjust from below, but it can be done. Heck, even I managed.

Welcome. And if there is such an attachment for the Case 580, which there likely is, it should work on a SEE. Once you run the necessary lines to feed it. If you're lucky and it'll run on the front hydraulics it'd be as easy as using the tool reel. Probably would need extension hoses, though.

My thinking was that it's a hydraulic system, not an engine, so hydraulic fluid is probably better. Not having the same logistical constraints as the military, I have no reason to try running the same oil/fluid in as many applications as possible. Been using AW-32, and probably decided on that...

Yeah, I bought a used 12-incher off an unknown model, and while it fits, it won't fold in as tightly as the original bucket.

There are readily available and very good valve stems for tractors and implements, too. Usually made from brass.

I have a couple of things working in my favor. For one, it rarely gets to 80 degrees here, and when it does I don't want to be outside in the first place. Secondly, it's not often I use the backhoe for more than an hour at a time these days. But probably most importantly, I run the engine at...

Earlier today I thought about eliminating the cooling system altogether. The MB-4/94 tunnel washer I have only have a large tank (30-something gallons) and runs a hydraulic motor, plus the other hydraulics which are similar to a backhoe. My fans really only ran when using the snow blower, and...

At first I thought you must have added a zero to those numbers, but then remembered that I have one with about 5,000 miles showing. Either way, as mentioned above, don't pay too much attention to the numbers.