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I just found this thread at smokstak: MEP-003A Generator - SmokStak It has a good photo of the jumper wire for 120V-only mode. It also mentions that you can't leave the jumper there and switch back to 240V single phase mode.

You might find the FAQ section of the WIKI helpful: MEP 002A and 003A - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

The main power connection is to the lugs. The 120V receptacle is just a convenience outlet. You can idle them, but shouldn't, because as I understand it, the AC regulator will try like crazy to keep the output voltage up, to the point of failure. Keep the throttle set so the engine...

I was able to open and view them with a generic PDF file viewer. Adobe Acrobat shouldn't have any trouble, but I don't have a copy to try it.

I exercised my MEP-003A today. While it was powering my house's normal loads, I let enough air out of the tank to make my 5hp compressor start. It's an industrial compressor with a real 240V 5hp 1725 rpm motor that is rated at 24 Amps at full load. It started and ran OK, although you could...

Either that or install the water heater elements in a small tank of some sort. It's OK if they boil the water, as long as there is some.

I can tell you from experience that they will burn out in less than a minute if not immersed in water. They'll put out a lot of orange light just before they make a loud popping sound and blow.

Did you adjust R15 (or R16) as described in TM5-6115-585-34.pdf, page 6-8? You turn it counterclockwise until the voltage becomes unstable, then turn it clockwise until it stablilzes, then turn it two additional turns. In your case I guess it was already unstable, so you can skip a step. :-P

My MEP-003A has none of the jumpers in place. The board looks like it's been replaced, so I assume the person who did it was lazy and/or didn't read the instructions. It's on my list to put them on and verify the adjustment of the pots, but it seems to regulate OK the way it is.

I don't mean to insult you at all, but if you're measuring frequency at the convenience outlet and not getting a voltage reading at that location, having the meter in the DC volts range could explain it. Or are you measuring a voltage, but it's very low?

That's a great supplier. I found them when I was looking for a grease called EZ Turn that's resistant to fuel, for lubricating fuel valves and things like that. It's also a good sealer for things like float bowl gaskets.

That brass fitting from Amazon I posted about on page 3 is down to $6.75 today. Maybe the price of copper is fluctuating. :p I used a piece of 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD fuel hose I got from McMaster-Carr and it went on the fitting very tightly so no clamp is needed. This looks like a good way to...

You may find the carb is gummed up and has blocked fuel passages if the engine runs when primed with gasoline, and then quits when that fuel is used up. You're right that it proves usable fuel is not reaching the cylinder.

You might be able to increase the governor sensitivity. The manual tells how, and says to increase it until it doesn't quite hunt. It's in the technical manual, page 7.1.

The regulator can't sink the output of the bridge because the connection from the bridge output goes to regulator terminal 18, and that doesn't go to anything that can sink much current. The bridge's negative output goes to the regulator's negative bus by way of terminal 12, and its positive...

I've been sitting here wondering that too. I'm starting to think that the bridge output is what's supplying current to the exciter field, and the regulator board regulates that by passing DC from CR6 and CR7 (supplied by AC from T1) through terminals C1 and C2 of the current transformer, and...

The bridge rectifies the AC output of the windings of the current transformer that are connected to it, changing the AC to DC, so the bridge isn't feeding the transformer, the transformer is feeding the bridge.

Glad you got it running and were able to diagnose the problems as you did. Your story points out why I taught my kids to always wear eye protection and strike connections to a battery quickly and gently before actually making the connection for real. If there's a short, it becomes very...

Sounds good, Eric... nice work!

When using an auxiliary fuel tank, the auxiliary fuel pump is powered full-time, and fuel flow is controlled by the solenoid valve at its output. Fuel is pumped by the auxiliary pump into the onboard tank when the tank's float switch senses that the fuel level is a few inches from the top of...