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Not sure yet, as I don't have the final bill, but from what they said it'll most likely be under 100, and probably more towards 70. I'll post back when I find out.

Hrm... Good to know as I've considered this kit, but don't want to leave the big square batteries. Must be handy living that close to LMC :razz:

I'd certainly do the filter, and my guess is yours is like mine, and does have low miles... If you drain the fluid, try blowing through the cooler lines, it should push out any of the old fluid, if not use an air compressor to make sure there is no blockage... Also, a good shop has a tool that...

Well, I'm going to be sure to post my findings when I get gen 2 back, and I plan on rebuilding gen 1 and the starter when I have time in the next month as well. Hopefully this fixes all the issues, if not I'll keep posting what I did to troubleshoot everything. Good luck with yours as well!:-D

I take it you can't use the standard mil-spec batteries with the kit? Looks like the air intake would be in the way. As far as the headers go, I'd be curious to find that out as well as I'd rather stay N/A for less complication under the hood in a SHTF situation.

I've had a U1200 Unimog that was the bane of my existance... Everything from random air leaks, to wiring issues (another 24v system, but with a hot ground which always made it confusing) transmission issues etc... Venting frustration is more than certainly allowed. Anyone else notice...

I heard that one a lot too, although I've also heard from others who've swapped out a lot of the old relays and such that they never had a problem since... So here is hoping. I'm certainly not new to the whole wrenching thing, or fixing it differently than stock, so I hope that once I get over...

Can't wait to find out what you found!

Son of a... :evil: So just putting in the bulb killed the alternator? Or just extremely bad timing? :-P

So would that cause the issues I've described at the start of the thread? Also now that the ignition switch is not sending the 12v signal to the starter relay. Thank you!

Thanks, I figured that is what it was when I was looking around today. The part number though is a HUGE help :-D

Well, I pulled Gen2, and took it to my local rebuilder and he said it was DOA. I'll have it back within 24 hours. I'm still skeptical that just the alternator was the cause of all these problems. Any other input would be greatly appreciated.

After replacing the start relay, it still wouldn't start. Ended up not getting the 12v at the signal wire. However, the other day it started after not starting for awhile so I believe it to be an issue with a relay. The clicking when running comes from a silver relay/solinoid on the firewall...

No other ideas?

Plus make sure the starter is sealed up, and the connections have water proof connectors... Vent tubes for the axles are extended... etc... Lotta little things help :wink:

I'll be doing the upgraded/heavy duty starter relay replacement anyway tomorrow, since that isn't an issue I want to have down the road. If the Gen2 isn't working, the resulting voltage from it would only be 14.7v supplied by Gen1 right?

Could the starter relay be part/all of the problem?

I guess I'll see tomorrow if this works, as I'm going to pick one up and try it. From my experience with 24v systems, they do have better cold starts. Some of the guys on here will argue otherwise, but 24v is just far more efficient. As much of a pain this 24v/12v system is, I want to keep it. :-D

Nice, although it's hardly touching the wheels ;)

What I did on my 78 (non military) blazer was put it in the center console. I modified it, and had the amp in there as well. :-D