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FU1 is only for the alternator recharging, does not effect starting. I usually get a fuse used in microwaves (glass type can't remember amperage). These units are known to have faulty master switches, that is what Guyfang is wanting you to check. DC power comes into MT4 Stint, then to the CB1...

For the hard line, I would call Delks or check with DPEquipment on the big auction site. They are selling a lot of different used parts for 802-803a, they may have it but not listed.

Missing fuel pump, fuel cutoff solenoid, coolant temperature sender, and primary hard fuel line going to each injector pump. Everything can be found on the big auction site except the hard fuel line with the bolt that attaches to the fuel bowl.

After you get the fuel system cleaned, try to move the throttle linkage on the injector pump up, I'm betting its not going to move. The plunger inside the pump always gets gummed up and if its at the lowest position when starting, it will break the plunger guide. Then you have to disassemble the...

They use Fram c1125pl filters. On some units you can still see the decal for the fram part number stenciled on the filter housing. Wix and napa are a little shorter. Order off rockauto.

Everything your looking for is on ebay except the s1 switch, tube assembly and fittings for pump. The fittings for pump should be able to get from large hardware stores or grainger.

I was bidding on the same unit until it reached $1500, then I jumped out. I think it went for around $2,000

Good job! I remember that unit, they threw S1 in the engine compartment and a lot of parts were messed with. I'm in West Tn if you ever need help with a unit.

I would say your actual S1 master switch has gone bad. Its a common problem with the plastic switches.

They won't fit between the fender wells on car trailers. I have a 14k 20ft car hauler and had to get the guys to lift it over the fenders to put it before the fenders.

Since the side panel is off, use a pipe wrench on the upper lip. Worse case scenario is to take the housing and filter completely out and put the housing in a vice.

With the fuel rack, it only takes a little resistance and it won't move. Stick you finger into the hole where the pump came out and manually move the fuel rack towards the generator head, to see if it will move. It moves based on springs so it's not directly attached to the shut off solenoid...

There was someone on ebay selling the set about a month ago. I bought a couple because I'm always missing something.

Replace the mains and rod, then run it. It will be fine. Did you notice if the push rods were bent because the piston looks like the valves hit the top of the piston.

I always use the murray ultra 15358 thermostat and they have the little jiggler.

It's very common for the paint to be flaking on the head. It doesn't peel on the other surfaces for some reason. But I've dealt with 100's of units with the paint peeling and all performed perfect.

Any standard marine guage will work. For fuel, look for one that reads 33-240 ohms and temp, look for one that maxes out at 240F

I agree with Light in the Dark. I almost guarantee that electrical cleaner will bring back your percent load gauge. That is the number 1 indicator of dirty contacts for me. I've been real lucky with Wal-mart electrical cleaner. Deoxit is fantansic but I can't get it local.

So when it disconnects do you get the fault indicator OVERLOAD? If so, then everyone's comment on cleaning the switches is correct.

I purchased a 003a from a local sheriff's department one time, that had the wires cut in the same way. Some crack head wanting just a little cash was the cause. They caught him on camera. lol!