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Yes I believe the test you're describing is direct current to the exciter board, which should result in voltage generation. In -34 there is a test setup for the output box which test CVT1, Linear Reactor, A4 (exciter board), etc. It gives resistance values for everything. Most of the time I find...
Attached is an excellent write up on the rebuild of the speed switch. MEP 005a/004a Speed switch tear down and repair (mechanical version)
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?183163-MEP-005a-004a-Speed-switch-tear-down-and-repair-(mechanical-version)&p=2174010#post2174010
Guy, you're right again! I double checked all the relays and resistors in the special relay box and reinstalled. Still no start. Took the speed control harness off and jumped AB, started right up. So I took the speed switch apart last night and found the housing was to far apart so the reset...
If you ever buy a diesel and the person has it running before you get there be cautious. People love ether to start diesels but ether destroys the cylinder walls and rings. It will cause lose of compression, making it very difficult to start, I think you need to go back to Guy's suggestion about...
Open up the gauge panel, look on the back wall to the left and you will see the resistor board. Look at the 2nd to the bottom diode, it will say CR1. Check voltage on the right of the diode, it should be 24v and then check on the left side, it should read 24v. I bet it reads 0, if it reads 0...
I should mention, that I can hit the battle short on and the fuel pumps activate, then when I go to run on the start switch, the fuel pumps activate and the gauges move into position, so I'm getting power. Guy I did reset CB1 thinking the same thing.
So I pulled the special relay box and I...
Just got in a mint 004a with 27 hours after a tier 2 reset in 2006. Everything worked perfect, then one of my guys was power washing the bottom of the set, under the motor and accidentally touched the positive cable on the starter to ground with the metal power washer hose. Now I have no start...
Since the unit was giving proper output and then stopped, I would take the top off the gauge cluster to make sure all the connections are tight/clean. You will then be able to test the direct leads out of the generator to see if its the generator itself. It could be a dirty connection on S8...
Ok, so the reason it's not starting is because of the pumps. Do not presume you need new pumps, they really do not go to the point of being unserviceable. The pin and collar you reference fit into the fuel rack, the rack is a thin piece of metal that runs along the block, which all the pumps fit...
To check the pumps follow the instructions below
1st take the hard line off the top of the pumps and zip tie out of the way
2nd take the top of the pump off, the part the hard line attaches to, Be careful because there is a spring under the housing you're taking off. Usually its a 3/4 or 11/16...
So, is it staying engaged while its running or is it grinding after its running and you go to start again?
If its continuing to be engaged after the master switch goes back to prime and run, its more than likely A1 relay assembly. It has a diode behind it and if it fails will continue to keep...
You can rebuild the motor without removing it from the unit unless your going to get it tested for cracks. I bet you just need rings and the engine honed, very easy to do with the unit in place.