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Yep, like Alpine pointed out, the rears are outlets, the fronts are inlets. I think the FLU's compressor is anemic on a good day. Not that I know its specs, but with the limited tank volume it really should fill them much faster. One of these years I'll probably install an electric compressor...

Gotta love those "non-runners". Cheap, and usually stupid easy to get running.

Your local Case dealer probably has them. Give them the measurements to make sure it'll fit.

If you prefer number 4, it sounds like you'd fit in fine around here. Plus property is cheap. Heck, even the local corrections department has a SEE.

While it's not a fix, it's quick and easy to blow compressed air into the tank through the line at the strainer. If the pickup is clogged, that'll unclog it...for a while anyway. Or you can do what I did and replace all the lines and washers (which surely didn't hurt) only to find that it was...

You mean like this? Except it took more than a regular tractor - my friend was spinning all six tires on his 30,000-lb. rescue machine.

Aside from using the backhoe as a counterbalance/to extract yourself, as others have mentioned, even as wimpy as the loader is on the Winter SEE it can help push backwards in situations like that. Heck, supposedly Big Bison was in a much worse predicament than that and successfully deployed the...

On my FLUs I may or may not notice if the brakes work. I very rarely use the brakes on them. I have a beater sports car that generally gets to go to the post office, some three miles away. It has a bad habit of running the master cylinder dry, and I usually don't notice that until having to...

I use anti gel. Because I'm lazy. It's much easier. Thumping? Had something similar to that when a snow chain came off the outside and ended up draped over all the little lines, hoses, and wires on the inside. Oddly enough, nothing broke.

Or, it could be as simple as that the fuel was gelling. If the temps were low enough, that is.

I'd check the strainer, and for air leaks, before replacing any parts. At least it sounds much like what I've experienced. Besides, I hadn't heard of an idle control assembly, so I wouldn't even know how to replace one.

If memory serves me, a FLU can put out 26 gpm at some 2,500 rpm. In my case, that's almost enough to run the snow blower in deep, wet snow. If only the SEE would be geared lower, it'd work great. That's with a low flow 'blower, by the way, and only a little wider than the SEE. Since I only use...

No problem, SJ. I'm probably due for my fourth (or would it be fifth?) reread of that thread. There's a lot to absorb.

New doesn't equal good, unfortunately. If you open one bleeder at a time a little, you'll have plenty of time to keep an eye on the level in the reservoir. You know you're done when the brakes work perfectly (sorry, couldn't resist, Ron).

If you go back about two years in the main (owner's) thread, or maybe it's almost three by now, there are scattered posts showing how I did my quick tach conversion on the Winter SEE.

Yep, gravity is our friend. I have a car with a notoriously hard to bleed clutch, and found that if I just add fluid and left it alone for a day or two, the clutch was fine. rtrask, it could be worth trying a simple gravity bleed; leave a bleeder open for a while without touching anything. Of...

I do not want the air out of a FLU going into my tires. Not unless I run it through a good oil/water separator first.

Yep. That was the main reason I went with the wider wheels and tires on the Summer SEE. With the stock setup, cleaning out a ditch almost resulted in three ditches - two of them from the skinny tires.

I'm glad to see that you wrote "nearly".

There are at least 12 more out there...somewhere.