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There is power at the harness. I ohm'd out the reverse light switch and it goes to a short when the little actuator arm is lined up with the spade connectors on the housing. Mechanically the switch seems to be working, so I think the problem is the severe amount of dirt on it!

Basic electrical theory says this would work, but I'd like a 2nd opinion before attempting.... I pulled my backup light switch out of the steering column and it is CRUSTY looking. Totally covered in dirt and the contacts look nasty. To test the circuit I should just be able to stick a...

Now I feel like a jackass! aua That's what I have always called a "high-beam switch".... I saw a reference to a "dimmer switch" and was thinking maybe it was something else... Thanks for the sanity check....I've already read the -10.

At the risk of sound stupid... There's a headlight dimmer switch? I know about the headlight on/off switch with dash dimmer.... Which vehicle is the headlight dimmer found in?

I think the Silly Putty is the most obvious solution! :beer:

Has anybody repaired a floppy outside mirror on their M1009? My driver-side mirror would not stay out, and was being folded back against the door by wind if I drove anywhere about about 30 MPH. When I disassembled I found that there is a plastic shim around the mirror shaft that should...

Can somebody identify this component for me? The closest I could find was "Capacitor Assembly" on Page 54-1 of the -20P TM. There appears to be 3 capacitors held together by a bracket attached to the driver-side firewall right next to the windshield washer pump. In my truck the capacitors...

Well.... I measured the vacuum at the TPS Vacuum Valve gizmo with a different vacuum tester and got 25" Hg with that one. Still seems a bit higher than it should be, but a little lower. I ended up just rotating the valve body all the way towards the firewall. The shift points are now as...

Is it normal for too much vacuum to cause a late-shift issue? From my reading I'd associated that problem with not enough vacuum. Does the vacuum generated by the vacuum pump drop when RPM's go up, or is it constant from idle to redline? I measured with my vacuum gauge while at idle. Was...

I got a vacuum gauge and measured everything. At "input" side of vacuum valve on IP: 29.5" Hg At "output" side of vacuum valve on IP: 14.5" Hg At Transmission Modulator: 14" Hg It seems like I have TOO MUCH vacuum!! Would this cause my shifting issues and how do I reduce it? This...

OK...maybe I'm a little lost. I've been looking through the -20 TM and all I've found is the section below for troubleshooting. I don't have a gauge to check vacuum, but I'll go get one in a few minutes. Is the Throttle Position Sensor the same as the "vacuum valve" (see attached picture)...

OK.... I've topped up the ATF, replaced the Transmission Modulator and the vacuum lines. The problem seems like it may have actually gotten worse...any ideas? Should my next step be to rotate the vacuum pump back towards the firewall?

I couldn't find Dexron III transmission fluid at the parts store. What I did find was Dexron VI, which says it meets the Dexron III standards. Can I top up the tranny with the Dexron VI, or would that be bad? :?:

I think most of it was 9/32" tubing. I really just pulled all the old lines and took them down to the parts store to compare.

I haven't had a chance to try the shifting yet. I checked the fluid level after putting in the new Vacuum Modulator and it isn't even showing on the dipstick. I didn't want to risk damaging something by driving it without enough fluid. I am the 2nd "non-military" owner of this truck and it...

I replaced my vacuum lines and Transmission Modulator today in an attempt to resolve the late-shifting issue in my M1009. When I pulled all the lines off I noticed that the hose reducers and the double-hose fitting that goes on the vacuum pump at the IP were missing. Basically the hoses were...

Thank you for the offer, but I won't be needing it. I actually found the plate jammed under the rear bench. Apparently the last owner took it off and tossed it in the back. Ended up mostly under the bench somehow. Was a little bent but I can straighten it out pretty easily. :-D

On a slightly different subject I have a question about the Gen 2 light on the dash. The Gen2 light comes on with the ignition and then stays on after starting. It will remain on until the 1st time I give it some throttle. Once I touch the throttle it goes out and stays out. The voltmeter...

Thank you for the info. Since the truck starts and drives normally its safe to assume that the 12V was supplied to the GP relay through another electrical path? If this was getting a full 24V somehow then I assume the relay would pretty much blow immediately and prevent starting.

So this is part of the resistor system that drops the 24V electrical down to 12V? Other than some apparent grounding issues, the interior electrical all seems to work normally. If these wires have been cut wouldn't the internal electrical be dead? Sorry if these questions are basic....I'm new...