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Got the Banks turbo on and running. Made a huge difference. See video for results. https://youtu.be/19DfwCOFUms

Here is a video of my 1028 being timed 0-60 with a VC3000 performance computer. I do have a 700-R4 in this thing, but the engine and gearing are all stock. Running 285/75-16 tires. I'm putting in a Banks turbo soon, and wanted to have a good before and after comparison for myself and others...

I'll try re-aiming them again. I didn't want them too high, blinding oncoming traffic. I had read there were maybe a revisiona with the lights, and the second gen has a tighter hot spot, how old are your guy's?

They are definitely Truck Lites. The ones in my Harley, I don't know who makes them, but they seem to have more diffusers in the back of the light. I'm assuming that is part of the difference.

Yes, they are Truck-Lites. I'll try and get a picture of what I'm talking about, but I did some reading and a lot of the jeep guys complain about it to, so I know it's not just me. My Harley Road Glide came stock with LED's and they are amazing and the light is perfect, I was hoping these would...

I recently put these lights in my 1028. One thing I really hate about them is the "hot spot" or bright spot in the middle of the beam. It's very distracting to have a couple 5'x5' bright spots on the road in front of the truck. I need to get out in the real dark and try and see if I can adjust...

When I first put in my temp gauge, it would only get to around 160. Thought it was the thermostat, so I changed it out for a new 195. Still read 160-170 at the rear of the engine. The cardboard helps to keep it at 170ish at temps below 32 f.

You might also want to make sure you bleed the air from the rear of the engine, it will make your gauge read low. Run the engine and get it a little warm so it builds up some pressure, then crack the gauge sensor/bulb fitting to let the air escape. Just by careful of the pressurized coolant...

I just tried to copy this lift project, however it did not turn out exactly like the original posters. The best price I could find (delivered) on the springs was from Summit, so I ordered the front springs from them, (Tuff Country EZ-Ride Heavy-Duty Leaf Springs 18271) along with the correct...

Does anyone have any brackets they would sell? I have the seats but no brackets, and I'd really like to mount them. Also, does anyone know what this bar/channel with the loops was used for? It has shorter ones for the back also. It bolts all the way through the floor of the box.

I'm about to order all the stuff to do this exact same thing. My truck is in storage down at my farm, so I can't get any measurements right now, I want to get all the parts by next week when I can bring the truck home, and would like to get stuff on order so I'm hoping I can get some help...

I just used the weights of the diesel governor and used springs from a Superior Trans Gov kit to get the shifts exactly where I wanted them. If you can find the electrical switch, I'll let you know how I modified it to make it 100% adjustable on both on and off.

You also need a diesel low stall torque converter (and be sure the transmission governor is set for a diesel), and the tall transfer case adapter. How are you going to do the lockup? To get it (lockup control) to the point that I could stand it cost a bunch of cash... I wired it for 4th gear...

http://t.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html or you could just use a cheap tach.

The bleed plug uses a cylindrical rubber plug that is flat on the end/hole in the other (shaped like a glass or bucket) that fits on the tip. The drain plug uses a cylindrical seal, without it the fuel would just run out. I don't need the sensor oring, I drilled and taped an npt hole and...

Another tip for the heater it to plug it into a Killawatt (you can get them at home improvement stores). Then you can see the size of the heater and that it's working correctly.

That may work for the water drain, since it's a needle valve shape. I don't have a frame of reference for the length, mine must have fallen out and disappeared when I took it apart.

Where are you guys actually buying the orings from? I need the orings/seals for the bleed and drain screws and can't find them anywhere.

I just did this a swap in an m1028. The easiest route was to get a rebuilt transmission for an 80's truck. (They would be a k case). Then you can find a late 80's np208 transfer case and don't have to monkey with input/output shafts. (I paid 45$ for one and rebuilt it for 80). You can buy and...