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Beerslayer, I used plain old phosphoric acid from home depot to pickle several pieces. Sprayed it on with a spray bottle for larger stuff or dipped smaller pieces. It works very well. I then rinsed with distilled water. On some pieces, afetr the water rinse I immediately rinsed with 99.9% pure...

Truckoholic, Yeah, I had the exact same problem with Picklex20. I like the product but when I tried to wipe it off of my blasted frame - DISASTER. I ended up with thousands of little fibers stuck to the frame. The blast left a pretty good profile and all those sharp little edged tore up the...

Thanks Beerslayer, I too considered wet blasting, but have never gone that route. For wet blasting look at HoldTight © 102 Flash Rust Inhibitor and Salt Remover or Chlor*rid International, Inc. (blast Hold) I am going to be testing Hold Tight 102, but all I know at this point is what I have...

Hi guys. I have been going crazy over the past year trying to figure out what the best products or process is to prepare sanded or blasted body parts for painting. Phosphoric acid, Metal Ready, Rust Blast, PickleX 20, POR15, Rust Mort, Zero Rust, Hold Tight 102, Chlor*rid, Hold Blast...

Hi guys, Can anyone identify this oil pump. The guy selling it states that it is a M37 oil pump, and it certainly looks like one - except for the additional outlet (?) on the cover plate. http://www.m37rebuild.com:82/Engine%20Rebuild/Forms/DispForm.aspx?ID=73 Has anyone out there seen...

Thanks for the replies guys. From doing some further research it appears that the bypass oil filter system is not as bad as I originally thought. I looked at many blogs and forums and it appears that when the flathead is running all the oil get filtered due to mixing the filtered and...

Hi gang, Well, I have jsut spent over $1,500.00 and six months of sweat and tears (oh, some blood too!) rebuilding my 1951 T245 from the ground up. It has new or re-machined everything. I am in the process of assembly and realized that this engine does not have a full flow oil system. Upon...

LOL, those **** metal mites.... Thanks for the replies guys. I purchased them from a source here in the US, but have no idea where he sourced them. Louis. 1951 M37

Hi Gang. I have an interresting case for you. An observation on some NOS pistons and wrist pins I purchased for my M37's T245 engine. The outer boxes stated that they were packaged in 1951. The outer boxes were all in perfect shape with no physical damage or water stains. Inside the...

Thanks for your replies guys. I am going to take it in to have the sleeves and top of the deck machined for $85. Thanks, Louis

Larry, The sleeve does not extend above the head gasket - as a matter of fact the head gasket sits on top of the sleeve, so that section of the gasket between the top of the sleeve and the head is really squished down. Also, I measured the distance that the sleeve extends above the deck - it...

Hi all. I am refreshing my tired T245 from my '51 M37. When I pulled the head I saw that the engine had cylinder sleeves installed. (Military depot rebuild in Septembet 1973) What I also noticed was that the sleeves are not flush with the top of the block - they extend about .05 above the top...

I'll answer my own question for anyone else's benefit. I found the answer on another forum and will post that reply I received here as follows: You will need to pull the pan, and flywheel housing bottom cover. Loosen all the main bearing caps somewhat so the crank can drop slightly downward...

Hi all, I just purchased a 1951 M37 (nicknamed 'Mater by my 9 year old) and discovered to my horror (or should that be - I should have known this was coming...?) that the engine front and rear main oil seals both leak badly. Replacing the front seal is no problem, however - do I need to drop...

Cool, thanks got it...