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You only need a sending unit for the 28-gallon fuel tank diesel 1984 model. No 4 lines are available anymore. Use the sending unit they list for a civilian model. Check out my Wild Weasel build thread I just had the sending unit out and showed how I tested it manually. The 4-line sending unit...
The new aluminum ones work fine. I have used them since day 1. The old copper/brass stuff is obsolete. Like bias ply tires we have progressed to lighter better materials. I prefer the plastic aluminum radiators myself if I have a choice . They are easier to repair. And I have driven trucks with...
I got it. Not sure what the issue was but I was determined and knew I could do it. So now I have 3 completely functional rear window cranks with cylinders installed and everything works on them. 2 of the 3 are brand new. I had to take the Genine GM clutch into the basement and Dremel grind a few...
I am back on the OEM black crank. Maybe that got thrown in the truck on the line because they could not get the cylinder into it. I am going to keep trying but the LMC one went together like nothing.
And then just like that I got it. That spring has more tension than the stock spring and you must basically plunge it in tight against the other wall of the crank. Fell into place. I was really starting to wonder if I was losing my skills. Take Care.
I may end up taking these cranks to a lock smith. I cannot get the cylinders to stay in any of the cranks I have. Stock everything except the spring. I have spent a few hours on these 2 cranks and watched videos. I used to do this like brushing my teeth. Almost effortlessly. That was all stock...
I know that. I don’t have a spare CUCV lock cylinder for the gate. If I did I wouldn’t be in this conundrum. I am going to go out and dig up some more parts and get the new crank and cylinder out for your Wild Weasel. I hope I have better luck with that one. That is a complete LMC set up. I...
I am in the process of assembling 3 rear gate cranks and have hit a snag. The black OEM handle I found trapped / entombed under the seat of Little Red when I was disassembling it. With the radio rack in place from the factory the seat could never be folded forward so I assume it was entombed...
90-degree torque angle adapter or just set the torque wrench to 15 minutes on a clock face and turn it to 30 minutes. Understand. An extra 1/4 turn basically.
I have the same book that I received after my second class on the 6.2 diesel. I have an older one also. I used to go to Moorestown NJ for training at the GM school. I guess the part I remember was that on warranty repairs we threw the head bolts away and used the new ones. I just kept that...
I have met my goal for the evening. The gate is installed and adjusted to fit. The opening. Opens and closes very nice. I added a lot of new fasteners and the outer bumper braces are LMC. I fished 1/2” bolts thru the frame to attach the bumper braces. I will work at getting the rear gate back...
Just Google 6.2 diesel head bolts and there are pages explaining one time use stretch head bolts torque to yield . I used the Felpro bolts on everyone I ever replaced the head gaskets on. You should be golden. And the pegs on the block will assist in setting the heads down. And to answer the...
You are doing the right thing. But still buy new torque to yield head bolts. No studs are needed. I have driven these trucks hundreds of thousands of miles in stock form with no issues using the stock parts. Good Luck. Have you looked at the rear main seal? Just asking while you have it this far...
I bought an inexpensive car for fuel mileage, and it is in excellent condition. I am unsure of the condition of the timing belt so as decided I would just change it and change the water pump and all the hoses while I was doing the job. Well, this is why I always laugh when people say get OEM...
My hot day working on a cobbled up gate. I never had the issues I am having with this gate. Not sure why but I cannot get it to fit no matter what. I called out for help from a friend. We will give it another whirl today. It was just too heavy and awkward for me to in’s all by myself.
No a Suburban gate is a totally different animal. Nothing will fit that I am aware of except the outside manual crank if you ever find one that had manual crank. I will put in marketplace in a few years.
The theory that the torque rods came from a Suburban is proven wrong. I forgot that I had a Suburban gate that I bought early on and have been storing it. That explains the same part number in the Mitchell manual for right and left. Totally different. I am getting old I remembers the layout as...
I probably have 12 of the cowls in my barn. I am sure I have them parts you need. Used. I have a Genuine GM cowl brand new unused. I bought it back in the 90's and never used it because it is galvanized, and I didn't want to spend the time prepping it for paint. I used a civilian one and it all...
My paperback Mitchell tells the tale and solves the mystery. And my 7/16” Snap On wrench must be missing for 35 years now.
The torque rods for the rear gate have different part numbers. I cannot be positive, but I think the rear tailgate that is on this M1009 is from the 70's and the torque...
Todays struggle in the heat. Today I was setting my goal at getting the gate back on and fitting. I have failed. This gate was never right since I received the vehicle to work on it. The gate is on and in place. That is about all I will say. I have the left side Dring brackets, and the outer...
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