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Yea that “fuseable link” always struck me as kinda cheesy…

It doesn't have to be dried. After rinse you can put it back wet and it would drip dry/purge same as it does in service… aluminum is interesting, could also probably use sintered bronze, same principal as the porus beads, lots of small convoluted passages that force the water from Vapor back...

absolutely none taken, i agree, time is a valuable commodity, lost track of how many desiccant batches I have baked(toaster oven) to dry them out for re-install on waveguide dryers over the years. I guess for me its habit:) and these are actually pretty easy to service as you are simply trying...

Dryers are rated by air volume, so if you used more air, you would want more capacity. I think the old unit does dissipate heat way better than the newer cartridge units. all these dryers use coalescing media. I believe it is often mis-labeled desiccant Because it is removing moisture from...

Yep, remove the 3 screws holding that elbow on and push the purge valve back in And see if it seats. that design although old has a lot going for it. Large heat exchanger area and oil separation area(narrow gap between outer heat-sync housing and inner aluminum canister), large coalescing...

Look for a wire number on the wire itself.

well if you have air coming out around the dryer, could be a stuck purge valve like Mullaney suggested. What year truck and what type dryer. there is usually some form of cover or elbow over the actual purge valve. If that is where the air is coming from You will have to remove that cover and...

If I recall the banjo bolt is an 18MM x 1.5MM pitch(I can confirm that when i get home). That metric pitch actually coincides with a standard pitch bolt, as that has been the root cause of a few CTIS problems I have helped troubleshoot over the years. on these problems, someone had threaded a...

low tire = wheel valve, so you have 3 leaking wheel valves. They may have bad diaphragms, but they may simply be dirty and unable to seal... you can take all the wheel valve plumbing off the wheels and run schraders in the stem pipe and not worry about it, but the wheel valves are easy enough...

I’m getting too old for bells and whistles… I just want crap to work when I flip the switch:)

Well mine had 5 solid lights on when I got the truck. Every other part of the system was fine, including the pressure sensor and switch, but that unit was an absolute dead fish,,no function at any time under any condition…

Yep, may or may not work… can replace the whole thing with 3 switches and a pressure gauge for simple manual control…

And since the trucks already have the passageways for it, it makes sense to me to build a foundation and mount the electric where the hydraulic is normally placed. This allows you to use it for front or rear pulls like the hydraulic. It also puts it closer to the batteries so shorter heavy...

~5 minutes into this video, shows the pry-bar method for separating a joint…

Found my notes from an off-line conversation I had on this subject. the person I had the discussion with pointed out some other possible options from Bulldog, Gabriel and Ford. from my looking the Monroe, Gabriel and Ford all had the same specifications. The Bulldog was the same...

Found my notes from an off-line conversation I had on this subject. the person I had the discussion with pointed out some other possible options from Bulldog, Gabriel and Ford. from my looking the Monroe, Gabriel and Ford all had the same specifications. The Bulldog was the same...

What general said. You will have to remove the elbow fitting on the small hose where it connects to the stem pipe that is bolted to the wheel. Looks like a standard Schrader core in the wheel stem. you could also remove the cover screws on the wheel valve, there is a spring and a diaphragm...

Our air demand is probably less than some other trucks those are used on, so it should work fine usually a factor of how much leakage you have anyway... Since you have the old one, you can probably clean out/overhaul the purge valve, throw in a new cartridge in it and have a spare… don’t...

If I were doubling, i would probably use a lighter weight shock. Its about weight and rate, the monroes for example claim they are for class 7-8 trucks(26-33K and over 33K). by published spec ours are class 6(19-26K) Now IMO it is a grossly overbuilt class 6, but those are the weights... Now...

Yep, I had one in an old Toyota like that, gravity only, the filler pipes were tied together so only one filler port. Had 8.5 hours of fuel at highway speed. Yes the lower crossover hose was exposed. what I and others are proposing is an upper crossover using a pump. You vent the main tank...