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Check out the nice repair on this piece from the Wild Weasel, I think someone needs some welder training. This is the price that supports the upper core support and the lower core support and gives a place to attach the lower bumper to grill filler panel. This one is officially retired. I bought...
I was sad to see that the front driveshaft was toast.
The slip joint boot is torn and full of rust and the tube is bent at more then one place. It was picked up with a loader from the side.
also looks like it has not seen a grease gun since it left Flint GM.
In case you need the Felpro part...
I replaced both tie rod ends, sanded and painted the cross bar with the new tie rod ends installed I moved along and done the same to the drag link ends.
I have been making great progress today. I will post more.
I learned an expensive lesson. I guess it wasn’t” anyone fault. It has been a few years since I bought and used the big caulk tubes of The Right Stuff. I went to use it and it had cured inside the tube.
The gears look good in the front axle.
The center of the tube was still useable so not a...
I needed a lift kit for the M1009.
It was too low for me to install the hubs and steering linkage. This should work.
I know we all see these seals in the axle spindle areas but most times they are neglected and not replaced. I have new ones and cleaned and will re-grease the spindle bearings...
In my last post on this thread I mentioned my deep hatred of lift kits and one size fits all parts. Here we go. The shock bushing sleeves came in a bag assorted sizes. Well ain’t that special? None of them were the same as the OEM sleeves. I dug out the old shocks and pressed the sleeve out of...
I have the front axle knuckles back on and have slid in the axles after the picture.
The shock absorbers are a one size fits all. I am still not a fan of lift kits. The steel bushing must be installed into the grommets of the shocks and there are also spacers no it allows room for error.
The...
When I was 12 I had a Yamaha DT100. If you ever worked on old Yamahas, you know they used Phillips head screw bolts. You would use an impact screwdriver to take them out. I would go to my Grand Dads and get Allen head bolts. I never knew they were different threads at 12. But I learned quickly...
Now come on, if it is a metric bolt, it will be M8 x 1.25 x 19.1 mm you can mix metric with standard it will screw up everything. And believe me when I say I have seen many CUCV's directly from the military missing the starter support bracket and heat shield and they had 3/8" starter bolts...
Some before alignment and after alignment pictures of the doors and front end sheet metal
Right side before . And after
Left side before
After
Not the best pictures but many bolts were not tight and shims were just there even where not needed.
Transmission leaking fiercely scare me. I have seen more than one CUCV with the tail section of the transmission cracked and the transfer case front housing cracked from being carried around with a loader or forklift. Good Luck. The bolts that go into the transfer case are 15MM the bolts that go...
I affirm all the above actions. Without the starter support bracket in place, you are flirting with disaster. And not the kind Molly Hatchet sings about. I mean utter destruction of the fly wheel, starter and possibly the engine block. I saw where it twisted the starter and cracked/broke a chunk...
The doors are not heavy. One man can R & R a door. It works out better to have a helper. You really only need to hold the full weight of the door for a short time. After the first bolt is in you can relax a bit and getting the last bolt out gives you the full weight really quick. I always remove...
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