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its not really under the dash, it runs thru the middle of the dash. the motor is under the relay/fuse power panel. remove the PDP cover, and there are screws up under the top lip of the opening, and on the face of the dash toward your knees while seated. remove those and the power panel...

On an A1 yes. The 3rd pic of this last set appears to be an A0 grill and you can see the round part of the pivot right below the bracket…

well 6 and 7 wont hit as hard as they are smaller ratios. AWD is not the same as 4WD there is a center diff in the transfer case that allows different wheel speeds front to rear. Mode locks that center differential to put you in 4WD and if you are on pavement where wheels cannot slip/spin, you...

It looks like where he is bolting them on thru the grill is where the cab tilt hinge is bolted to the cab... Fairly robust there, probably as much as anywhere else on the cab...

well he said 6-7 felt fine and it wouldn't go above 5th if he was in mode. to the OP, how exactly are you sifting "manually"?

Well not if you convert to a 24v ign… i can start and drive my truck now without ever rning on the 24-12 converter… i just won’t have any lights…

Well,6&7 are both overdriven gears and they are also the smallest ratio changes…

Yes, exactly. The ground terminal board in the power panel, TB2 which all the circuitry is grounded back to, is tied to the ground test point. Its tied out to the panel edge and the grab handle bolt. Then Thru the dash and cab chassis to the ground lead behind the passenger grill down to the...

Yep, what are the gauges doing, particularly the volt meter. you may be right, something is getting warm, perhaps the circuit board in the ECU… if nothing happens on the dash and it is making 28V on the meter and drops to 24-26(batt voltage), hop out and immediately open the fuel cap. Does it...

There is another one up under the power panel between the ground test point in the power panel and the extreme right end of the dash assembly(over by the door hinge on my A0).

Yea the Victron appears to be an OK unit. you already have 24v running into the cab to the X1 point in the power panel. I was mainly reusing cables the way I wired mine using the alternator 24v as a junction point. Since I was removing the polarity box to simplify things, I had them...

It’s hard to beat a good old 0-1000A carbon pile load tester te really tell the tale:)

It’s behind the grill, runs between passenger frame rail and a welded stud up in the engine tunnel.

The excite wire is fed down from K11 once the oil pressure goes above 15 PSI and de-energizes K11. now that 24v’s ability to do anything in the regulator once it arrives at the excite terminal relies on it being able to complete a circuit to ground…

And lifting one wheel and chocking the ones left on the ground will allow you to spin to look for out of round/out of true conditions.

Real coolers are round!

No I have not gotten to a point where I need them yet…

Play = bad… IME humans can perceive ~.005” of play by hand. .005“ is outside of any DS spec I have ever seen(hinging test, ect) Especially when talking about driveshafts and pinions, felt movement = fix it NOW…

Partially operable… you will loose that system that is fed by the tank you drained. Federal motor vehicle safety standards(FMVSS) dictates that the systems be separated. They are fed with a common source(compressor, dryer, wet tank) but thru individual check valves on the service tank inputs...

Selling for $200 a set😏