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There is a separate information thread with all the details for the rally here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?176188-Official-2018-Ga-Military-Vehicle-Rally-info-thread-Oct-17-21-2018

Derek, I need you to add one of those M35 spare tire carriers to my M105 headache rack (again, customer). I'll have cash for you for both. C

The last model year of M44A2 production is 1989, although I'm not sure when the physical production ended, but certainly no earlier than 1988.

Starting here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73346-Dual-Circuit-Brake-Engineering-Thread&p=2068376&viewfull=1#post2068376 I tried to bring them to market. I do not believe they are economical to bring to market. $200? Even if I made them in mad volume it would have been...

I'm working on them today. The rally has used my personal attorney for the last few years and that's been at a greatly reduced rate (i.e. I have essentially been paying for the rally's legal services on my account) but his practice is going through some partner changes and critical shortfalls...

I'll take one of those fiberglass 105 headache/tailgate racks for one of my customers. I'll have cash, gracias C

That's pretty neat. I've never seen an engine where they resealed it and stamped it like that. Interesting.

Ok, couple of things. One, the rally is looking to partner with both local and national sponsors to help support the rally. There are some expenditures coming up in the future and there are some expenditures we had to take part in last year which has left us with less cushion than we'd like...

I spent $150ish on eBay for these 6 cannon connectors (3 pairs) and considered myself lucky. I think I'm up to about $600 on my 24-12 converter box project (I'm shamelessly copying most of yours). Brake controller, reverse circuit functionality in 12 and 24V, Bosch relays, etc.

Part of the cost is all the cannon connectors. Headlight switch, turn signal switch, front to rear harness connector, flasher relay, etc. And a lot of packards. I've made entire harnesses. It's time consuming to do it right and make it look professional.

Buy it. Last time Erik's had it in stock I want to say it was $510ish and he's been out of stock for awhile. He said he thought he was going to get more, but he hasn't so far. VWOM sells them for $1700 rofl

I need some deuce (M44 series) frame extensions for winch trucks and I need the chain and hook assy. for a deuce winch. I bought a mostly complete winch kit for one of my trucks but these items were missing.

So, on the dual circuit M44A2 and all M44A3 systems, the way they did this was one of the tanks is internally divided, giving it two chambers. That's why one of the air tanks has two draincocks. You can add a third tank, cut yours in half, weld a divider and reweld the two halves back together...

Well, we're just going to have steal the control box or something. "oh well, guess I'm stuck in Ga. Maybe I can get another box at the rally"

At issue is the weird seal. So, on these the seals ride on the bearing races and they keep the gear oil out of the hub and the grease in the hub. In theory. rofl In reality, if you get a perfect seal and a perfect race and the seal and race are seated perfect and the bearings are preloaded...

I have done so many hub services I can recite off the top of my head exactly which tools you need, torque specs, wheel cylinder, bearing, race and seal part numbers, etc. And it usually takes me 3-4 days to do a full blown, 6 hub service, including inner front seals and zipperless boots...

A couple of things are happening in the antique car hobby. Background: The Ferrari 250GTO is generally considered the most desirable "classic" car. Won LeMans, only 30-something built, beautiful, etc. In 2013, one set a record, selling for 38 million dollars. Then, one sold for 52...

I have a customer with a '66 427/425 Corvette and he spent $165K building the car (nut and bolt, total perfection restoration, date coded air in the tires kind of thing). He already owned the car, so that doesn't include acquisition costs.

I am in the process of writing up an enormous how-to article on 24V and 12V compatability issues. Just not quite done yet. First, if all you wanna' do is add reverse lights and have no other 12V needs, the easiest thing to do is either use some 24V back up lights or LEDs that run from 10-30...

I don't have a link for the harness I bought, because I got it from Napa but I suspect this one will work: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR3032BX I have seen this work on a truck that had rear LEDs, incandescent fronts. That's my only LED experience.