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Yeah, like working on stuck pickle jar lid and you hand it to your 7 year old to humor them and he pops it right off after you've been struggling for the last 2 minutes with all your strength to get it off.
Yeah, it was that.
Lots of head scratching and cussing - then just thankful it was off.
I gave up and had someone else do it.. .rofl
We ended up alternating between heat, and soaking it with penetrating fluids of various types. We knew if we broke the bolt off it wasn't going to be fun, and near impossible to drill out. Bent a 1/2" 3ft breaker bar.
We were debating if a sawzall...
Break out the TM.
I'm going off memory here, but....
Disconnect jack shaft/drive shaft
Remove fluid lines
Remove shift line
Remove pressure regulator line
Remove 1 or 2 electrical plugs (trans temp I think)
Remove vent line
Remove trans support bar
rotate engine to get bolts out of flywheel...
Tranny swap is pretty darn easy on these trucks.
Last one I did took about 6 hours total - and probably an hour or 2 of that was fighting a bolt in one of the driveshafts.
Can't believe I didn't update this a decade ago....
Shop is H&H Diesel.
The guy they had working on my truck was a new guy, and he actually came to me when I came to pick up the truck, after I paid. He explained they put him on it, KNOWING he didn't know anything about it, as a 'here, go...
Just to bring this back up - it seems like 1600s are coming back into stock in a lot of places with decent tread and date codes.
What issues will you have with articulation off road with such a large tire?
There are 2 isss
There are 2 issues with the mechanical lift pump. One, is the alignment issue you mentioned - I fought that myself when replacing mine. The other issue is getting the plunger/rod to stay in the right place - A gob of grease will make it easier.
You CAN run an electric lift...
Yup. Even some of the value branded stuff has some decent capability these days.
I remember the first battery powered drills were drills in name only - really couldn't use them for anything more than a glorified electric screwdriver. Good luck trying to get a nut off or driving a wood screw...
M18 high torque impact (or the Dewalt version, if you're a yellow guy).
I have a 3/4 that's rated to like 2100 ft lbs and takes lug nuts off a 5 ton with zero issue - I think I paid $250?
They also make a 1" - full handle and all - and that's I wanna say 2500 ft lb.... but also 2-3x the price...
The ones I had previously on my CUCV are here.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/the-weeniewagun-v3.205898/page-2#post-2512980
Those have a fuzzier cutoff - and also damn bright. Those are also the same as the ones that I currently have in my M1031.
I will be selling my M1031 so I will...
It was tongue in cheek. The STE/ICE kits don't provide enough usable information on the CUCVs to make the price worth it. I think you get something like voltage from both alternators, RPMs, and some other minor stuff that's easily checked.
I just saw the $250 price tag and was amazed, then...
I saw this pop up and was OMG WHERE DO I SEND MONEY?! ... then saw 2007.. and was like.. oh god. .no... someone necro'd a thread didn't they.:(
Thanks for getting my hopes up, mdnrenergy!! (also, welcome). Please pay attention to post dates - this forum has been around a bit.
The CUCV has multiple things working against it when it comes to glow plugs.
1.
The power comes from the 24V bus across a large resistor on the firewall. This resistor, in combination with the ~.5-1 ohm resistance of ALL 8 glow plugs drops voltage to around 10-12V.
These glow plugs are in...
So, in between not crapping my pants or throwing up (food poisoning) and being that the Weenie bought an M1009 and researched some of the brighter headlights since he hasn't needed to buy new ones in like 5 years and technology is constantly changing... Y'all know (or at least should know) how...
This followed me home last Friday.
The guy who sold it to me is a member here, but not sure about his user name.
I originally declined to buy it, because it had a lot of weird things about it, but in the end decided to put down a little more money than I wanted, and seller took a nice chunk...
The last couple cucvs I went with 12v plugs and bypassed the controller and relay ( it's a cucv thing).
It's my understanding that (s)wellemans are to be avoided - but is there any other option at this point?
Looking for a self regulating plug that won't swell and will last a while.
I plan...
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