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Oh I forgot the nozzle nuts at the delivery end of the lines are 19MM/3/4" use a line wrench to break loose and an open from that point after. I have had a few stubborn ones I needed to hold the nozzle with a 30MM open end. Only a few over the years.
You look like you are doing great so far. Lets remove the entire fuel pump and fuel injection lines all at once. Take a 7MM and remove the 4 clamp screws 2 on each side above the rocker covers. Next remove the 2 M8 13MM nuts that hold the oil fill neck to the timing cover. Remove the grommet...
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You need...
WOW times have changed. Back in the mid 90's I sold every TH400 I could get and people were throwing the 700R on the core pile. The TH400 is one of the toughest transmissions out there. When they added the OD to the mix that was always an issue. Maybe just changing from the 4:56 gears to some...
If I remember correctly the M1010 has a special lower radiator hose. That hose may no longer be available for the M1010. But you could fabricate a shield very easy. Good Luck.
Another thought. Send me a 2 way airplane ticket and I will fly out and change the pump. I can bring my own tools. It would be less then 1/2 of that $1800. quote. Good Luck. Let me know when you want to begin. Get your tool box ready.
If it were me I would change the pump and go from there. The delivery nozzles were bad only a few times and only one or 2 on the same truck. I had them checked on occasion with a pop off tool and they sprayed fine. I would change the injection pump and try it from there. No use throwing money...
I have used a few of these and a few VDO 24 volt voltmeters. You need one that is not self grounding. You can use the stock pigtail from the back of the stock voltmeter and have a direct fit and the hole is 2 1/16" just like stock. Good Luck.
If it were me doing the job I would cut the A pillar off and the B pillar and replace the entire roof assembly. You can make a few jigs with yard sticks or something to get everything back in square and aligned. It will need a good welder guy and you could slip a few pieces of 1/4" flat bar down...
No special tools needed. Fear not. I will walk you thru that and you will be amazed at how simple it is. Let me know when you are ready to begin. Get a nice level shaded place and put a sheet of wood or cardboard under the truck. If you are on the grass it helps so if parts fall such as nuts and...
That is a very nice original patina truck. Love seeing them. Most have been hacked up lifted and trashed by this time. Great looking truck. Also good to spend time with parents. It is priceless. Thank you for sharing.
No these were rusted thru. And the more I twisted the more they broke. I think the nickel coppers will work great. They are weaker but that is a toss up between rust and strength.
https://brakesystems.autopartsu.com/2020/08/24/nickel-copper-pros-and-cons/
But if the 1979 had the OEM lines 42...
Mr. Rusty M1028 is back in for it's annual use and abuse check up. The owner said the rear brakes were spongy and he has been adding DOT5 fluid to the small reservoir of the master cylinder. I discovered a slight leak at the clamp on the axle tubing where the 3/16" brake tube was rusted thru...
Do it yourself. If you have a level area to work and can take your time everything you listed is fairly easy. No need to drop the transmission to swap the flex-plate. Easy as can be. If you have basic tools and slight mechanical knowledge I am sure you can be talked thru from a far. Report back...
Anyone know this guy? He has some nice old old military vehicles. Always shows them in correct time period. Very nice. I would like to have another GPW someday. Maybe. Then again Maybe not. But I walked by this Jeep and I couldn't smell it running. That is the ones I like. No smoke from the...
Quick thought. Try and find the pawl and save the clutch if at all possible. Them OEM clutch parts are hard to come by. Most reproductions are thin uncentered and really don't last vey long. Good Luck.
Common break. I would take the new crank or driver apart and put real grease in the hole. I would use oil and grease on all the sash guide wells and the gears of the regulator. The side track runs need replaced if they are bunched up, wadded, or missing. Lots of times the lower sash guides are...