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Hold the phone
Unit nice and hot and STILL doing it.
Both relays have power to them but power not going to top post when switch turned to crank.
I’m at a loss for now.
Time for a drink
I still think relay was bad since it’s not working for preheating now.
I can jump the K 3 and engine will...
I’m SO glad it wasn’t the S7 switch.
I was really dreading the possibility of having to replace that.
Edit:
Found a NOS one, Eaton brand.
MS24166-D1
They’re Not cheap.
Mostly used in Aviation so that explains the price.
Relay is bad
Took apart and cleaned contacts.
Same issue.
Swapped with K2 relay and problem followed to the preheat circuit.
Took cover off relay and applied power.
Bad relay gets power. But doesn’t move at all.
Time to go shopping
Guess the heat was just a coincidence.
Gonna run it for a...
FOUND IT!!!
Traced the wire to the rear of control panel.
The K3 Crank Solenoid is bad.
K2 is the preheat solenoid.
The bottom wire of K3 is always hot with battery voltage.
Once you switch the selector to the crank position, the top wire is (supposed) energized and sends power to the starter...
Ok
Cleaned S7 contacts and made no difference.
Hooked up multimeter to starter solenoid for first start.
All went normal and solenoid received 24v for starting.
Ran unit for about 45 minutes.
Nice and cool this morning so it took a bit to get hot.
Shutdown engine and immediately tried...
The wing nut and stud are “one”.
Very easy to get in and out.
Cover not so much.
Cleaned contacts with fine sandpaper and no dirt or debris came off on paper.
You ought to see my spare parts collection for my CUCVs.
Yea
The struggle is real…….
I added more zip ties to the wiring.
Also applied rust killer to the trailer.
Lots of NOS parts arriving Tuesday.
The wing nut isn't the issue.
The threaded rod behind it is, in the picture.
The contacts "looked" clean, but honestly I didn't really check beyond a visual look.
Will use emery cloth tomorrow to clean them
So still can’t get cover off without messing with injection pump.
Verified before initial start this morning that S7 contacts are touching and pins on cannon plug have continuity.
Ran unit for an hour under a small 45% load.
She’s smoking a bit under load so it definitely needs the throat...
Renewed generator ground wire.
Shrink sleeve and wire loom makes a world of difference.
Also grabbed an older Tesla charging cable from the barn.
Have two of them and maybe I can use it for a good 120v cable. Minus the weird plug.
They came from an amusement place that was torn down a while...
Croft trailer sells factory replacement parts, including the entire assembly.
Their customer service is very good.
I found a NOS assembly replacement a while back on eBay but that was pure luck.
I still have my old assembly if yours is too badly damaged. Just needs a shock.
As mentioned...
The plates on your trailer are correct.
Yes the numbers changed for mission/unit requirements, modifications (like in your picture), etc.
I don’t own an A3 but all my trailers have the same issue. Pics of replacement plates for sale never or rarely match up with what’s on mine.
I did take the stud all the way out and still no luck.
Will try again tomorrow
I did look at the contact and it was closed.
Engine off and still hot.
Have the procedure to check and adjust it printed out.
She fired right up without issue.
Just the restarts when hot it’s not wanting to do.
Installed new voltage regulator and fuse holder.
Charging issue fixed.
Cranking issue still a problem.
Could not get the cover off the S7 switch.
Even holding up linkage didn’t give enough room.
Still a work in progress