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https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/master-cylinder-brake-system/duralast-new-master-cylinder-brake-system-nm1863/49333_1588934_2558_1700 I have used many of these.

Entertain this thought. CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 6 | SteelSoldiers Have you ever changed the lift pump and injection pump?

After a long time in storage the parts to convert an M1009 into a pickup truck and look stock have been sold. I posted a few of my M1009 parts on Facebook market and received a lot of attention and have sold the softback hard top conversion. I don't see me going that route again. and I also have...

Do you have any updates? Has the vehicle been released to you? If not what is holding it up from being released? I hope you have it or at least have a time line that you will have it. This transaction started back in June/July. Keep me posted.

I may have a brand new GM 1/4 panel. I know I do but I am not sure which side it is. I will look.

That is the antifreeze acidic test from 2007.

That right rear 1/4 panel damage will buff right out if you hit it with the right compound. Really it looks like a decent rig. Needs a lot of TLC but it can be brought around in due time.

Could be bad batteries or a bad starter. Still hard to tell from afar.

The Goodyear Duratrak is the best tire for the M series pick up and cab chassis combination. over the years as the Goodyear Work Horse evolved into the Duratrak I have bought and worn out many sets. on the M1009 IMHO the Goodyear MTR Kevlar makes the look and performs flawlessly on and off road...

How about a picture of the B pillar ID tag. And can you remove the dash pad and clean the A pillar pad up. I am sure it has a bit of dirt buildup.

28 MT starter. good set up. I prefer the direct drive but that starter will serve you well. Make sure the support bracket is firmly in place.

It can also be leaking higher up in the engine. The valley under the intake has a hole in the rear and that is directed into the bellhousing rear of engine and that hole is where you will see a leak. The oil leak coming from higher up can be a vacuum pump seal or the vacuum pump itself leaking...

That was painted on the frame by the contractor that supplied the frames to GM assembly in Flint. I toured the Flint plant back in the early 80's. Huge facility at that time. But now the Fort Wayne truck plant makes that old plant look like a stone age assembly plant. But that was on most of the...

I am not sure if we discussed this but make sure the fuel pump is the correct one. In this case if the shoe fits wear it does not apply. I seen this issue end up as a wrong fuel pump a few times. Lets look at that pump. I personally would like to see the lever that is activating the fuel pump. A...

I do like to see that the stock resistors are still hooked up and working. Good Deal.

The wires you have there are the fusible links on the alternators. Replace them with new fusible links. That taped one has to go. That is looking for trouble. You can buy fusible link wire at an auto parts store. The black rounds are just fancy butt connections.

That is for the M1010 fuel pump heater. It is not used on any others. I think the winterization kit uses it for the fuel fired heater also.

Yes I had 4 brand new injection pumps. I used one and it lasted less than 6 months. I used the others as cores and gave a few to friends that wanted a spare core. I don't trust old injection pumps. If in doubt replace the injection pump.

Show me what you need in the wiring harness. I have lots of wiring harnesses for parts and entire used harnesses. How about a picture.

I am not sure where you are on this project. But if you vacuum tested the feed and return lines and they held vacuum I think the lift pump and hose needs to be looked at. I just completed a no start project that lead me down a rabbit hole that found multiple fuel related issues. Even when I...