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Sounds like a bad pump to me, either that or someone added Ford type fluid, that eat up the seals in older GMs.

WOW! Why didn't you just get a set of drip rails from the bone yard? Pick up truck one's will work but the rear ones from a Suburban fit and look stock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H9ABXS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=axlesgarage-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002H9ABXS&linkId=100ff6db778458c9cad93963102efb48 I had no idea they still made and sold that! I bet I paid about $6-8 for one 30 years ago.

That just doesn't make sense, I'm not doubting that your having this problem just something that we don't see is wrong. Did you disassemble this engine or did someone else? Could the main caps have gotten switched around? Is the crankshaft the original one to that engine or is it a replacement...

I think the "select fit" is a way of saying measure and buy the undersize bearings that fit THAT particular journal. Unless the crank has been turned or will be turned I buy the standard size and then plasti-gage them, I can't remember when that didn't work.

OK, It kinda looked like half was done at a time and it made me wonder. I've played with PC small parts, can't even imagine the oven needed for a frame! Looking good and keep posting!

You can adjust the wiper by just popping it off the stud that comes up thru the cowl panel, easier said then done. I have or had a tool for it but they are no longer made. You can remove it with a flathead screwdriver and a small piece of heavy cardboard or something like that. On the very...

One drain and one fill. Now for my question, in the frame pics it looks like you powder coated the frame in sections, if so how did you bake it? Or does it just look that way in the pic's?

I have a 'civilian' Blazer that is red with red interior, 4x4 with a 350 , AC, PL, PW that had DOD stickers on the rad support (smashed in accident) and another in the door jamb. I knew the guy that bought it many years ago at a gov auction (pre internet). I was very upset with my son when he...

Like Tinstar said but I'd add check the linkage. It could be out of adjustment and a little body flex could be putting in in Neutral or Park but showing Reverse on the column. Anyway, do not drive it! 1st and reverse share the same bands and if reverse is gone so is first gear.

Yup, don't need to go fast or far, just hit your brakes hard while backing up and repeat.

I'd be willing to bet that CUCVRUS has some and Hillbilly Wizard too.

I think the answer to why your brakes pull to the right is in your post," I drove the truck today about 60 to 70 miles, felt of the hubs right after returning home and they were all cool except the right front seemed just a little bit warm. " Only three reasons that would be warm and lefts not...

Just an idea, how about changeing the 'gas' pedal from a floor mount to a hanging one? Kind of like a clutch or brake pedal. Sometimes an extra set of eyes see's things in a different light.

Almost everything in my garage gets either silicone or never seize, just depends on application.

Sounds like you're replacing just about all of it, I never replace wheel bearings 'just because'. I'll take them out and clean and inspect them and well over half the time they go right back in. They have to actually show signs of wear before I change them.

Looks good! Glad you caught that pin before totally reassembly. Have you ever noticed that drum brakes stop so much better going forward than in reverse? That's because of the wedge effect you get from the longer shoe (primary) contacting the drum and rotating slightly and wedging itself against...

Good to see you back even once in awhile. I can't imagine what you're going thru. Take care!

I always thought they are pressed in, nothing to back that up, just must've heard that somewhere in the past 65 years.

The K30 would be a truck, not the Blazer. Unless someone swapped axles you want all Blazer stuff. You can tell easy nuff, just count the lug nuts, Blazer has 6 the K30 has 8.