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I appreciate the reviews guys. I'm glad to hear success stories. Bob's will be on the way to him in the morning.

Are you hoping to diagnose and repair your board, or are you looking for a new one?

OK, so the control winding of CVT1 looks good. Everything is pointing to the regulator board. You did say it's an intermittent problem, which means you might have just caught CVT1 when it was behaving. Therefore it's not a 100% certainty unless you swap it with the one in your other...

Read my last post please. You're on the wrong transformer. You're measuring "1C" and "2C" of CT1 when you need to be on "C1" and "C2" of CVT1. Note that the diagram label "front" is away from you when you're looking in the enclosure. C1, X2, and C1 are nearest CT1.

I just went out to my MEP-003A and looked. You're on CT1. CVT1 is the one that's away from where you're sitting when you look at the pair. CT1 should have "CT1" molded into the housing facing you. That's the wrong one. Put those wires back on and find C1 and C2 on CVT1. I found a diagram...

I can't see what scale the green meter is set to in that last photo. It's reading 0.8.

I thought that's what we were talking about all this time.

At least one wire must be disconnected or you're not measuring only the transformer winding.

That photo shows you measuring the resistance at the wires. You need to measure it on the C1 and C2 terminals on the transformer. You're checking the transformer winding.

If you mean 2.0 ohms, that's a problem. Check the "-34" TM, but as I remember that resistance should be 9.6 ohms plus or minus 0.96 ohms.

CVT1 is bolted to the bottom of the box under the output lugs. It is against CT1 so it looks like one big black unit.

You already checked T1 and T2, but they're located in the main control cabinet. Terminals 10 and 11 are the output of T2, and terminals 15 and 16 are the output of T1. It looks like it's down to either the regulator or CVT1. Did you check the resistance between C1 and C2 of CVT1 to see if...

When you hold the switch in the start position, DC is fed from the 24v battery system to the exciter field to get things going. When you release the switch, CVT1's X terminals should put out 3 phase AC to diode board A4 in the cabinet under the output lugs. The DC from that board then connects...

You might also verify that T1 and T2 in the control box are working. One supplies the regulation current to the regulator board, and the other supplies a sample of the generator output to the regulator. If either one fails, the generator output will go high. Here are the voltages on the...

Bob, for some reason the output is not being regulated. From your description it seems like the full output of CVT1's X windings is being rectified by diode board A4 and being sent to the exciter field. This could happen if CVT1's control winding has a problem, or if the regulator is unable...

Double post, sorry.

In

CVT1 is where all the current for the exciter field comes from, so if the windings at X1, X2, and X3 are bad you can't get any output. I don't see how all three would fail at once, but it might be worth checking their resistances against the values in TM5-6115-585-34.pdf Also, that CVT1...

A regulator failure can cause no output, but it's more likely to cause too much output... overvoltage. You can disconnect the wire from terminal 17 of your regulator and tape the wire end so it doesn't accidentally contact something, and run the generator briefly. If the regulator was causing...

I would check to see if you have 24 VDC present in the control cabinet. If the bad battery effetively became an open circuit while the generator was last running, you may have had a capacitor on a fuel pump short, causing the 24v breaker to trip. If that's the case, remove the bad capacitor...