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Thank you so much for your reply to my post. I followed the link and got an EXTENSIVE EDUCATION. I will look into the part number identified in the link to see if I can locate one as a spare. I still think an adjustable cable bracket above the fuel injector pump would be the best "fix" so...

Hello All... I had to replace the accelerator cable on my M1008 today. I had to do the same thing several years ago on my M1009. I bought the replacement cable from O'Reilly Auto (Part # CA-8503 $23.39) and installed it, sort of... Rather than install the cable completely, I connected it to...

Where did you get your replacement BO Marker lights? Mine work, but they are REALLY cloudy and hard to see. As for using them, I try to use my at least monthly. I try to keep my BO skills sharp just for the fun on it. I never got to use them much while on Active Duty, so now I drive my...

Yes, a steel shop, 40x60 with a 14' sidewall. It is taking Forever. Hope to pour the floor within the next two weeks.

I too have to get this done. I will probably work on it over the winter if I ever get my shop erected and heated...

The radiator I bought for my M1009 was from Autozone, Part # B850. I paid $349.99 (tax exempt). It was an exact fit. I also purchased the upper and lower rubber mounts from https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com. I ordered part # 71712. They cost $18.00 and had a $7.00 shipping fee...

Wow... Awesome Pics... I love these trucks...

By being a 92Y for 24 years, I completely bypassed every possible physics and engineering class ever offered. I think I will build my shop, then build a gantry, and then, by trial and error, try to fix my trucks. Thank goodness for the Tech Manuals, this forum, and the incredible degree of...

Thank you for your quick reply! I was thinking the same way you are. I also hope to install a two post vehicle lift in my shop and was thinking that just might what I need to elevate the body from the frame. Once elevated, I could pull the frame out from underneath it and then put a wheeled...

I have been following this thread with great interest and RESPECT as I doubt I would have the skills necessary to take things to the level you have achieved. Hopefully, my new shop will be built this summer and I will be able to repair my M1008 and M1009 bodies as you have. While looking at...

OK... I have never seen this before and now I am excited. I have been pondering on how to mount a winch to my M1008. I didn't want a winch that hung off the front end like a truck wart. This BBWM is exactly what I wanted to achieve. I am guessing there are COMPLETE installation instructions...

Hello All... While working on my transmission, I noticed a great deal of transmission fluid on the underside of the truck body where the drive shaft enters the model 208 transfer case. I realized that this is probably due to a failed rear transfer case seal so I replaced it (Item # MPS 9449...

I am no CUCV expert, but I am super excited about perhaps getting your troop seats for my M1008. I have been trying to find the plans to build my own troop seats. I imagine that if you have the metal components, I can replace the fiberglass with wood slats. Your thoughts? I will send an PM...

So, I returned the WRONG torque converter to O'Reilly Automotive. Apparently, that torque converter was for a 1/2 ton truck. A more knowledgeable associate requested the proper (6 bolt) torque converter on my behalf. The torque converter part number is PTQ TC1154 and was $118.74. I also...

Thank you for your reply. I figured as much. I will return it tomorrow. I did see a rebuilt torque converter on ebay for slightly more than the one I got at O'Reilly.

My M1009 is still up on jacks so I cannot yet get the photo's, but I thought I would attach a copy of the reworked wiring diagram I used to fix my truck...

I purchased a have a new front driveshaft U-joint from O'Reilly Automotive (Spicer 5-1310X $26.09) but haven't yet installed it. It took an act of congress to remove the old U-Joint and I don't want to mess up the new one with poor installation procedures. I will have to google how to do it...

Thank you all for the great advice. I removed the front and rear drive shafts without too much trouble, although one of my caps fell of the forward most U-joint, spilling my needle bearings across my shop floor. I noticed that the U-joints have no grease zerks on them. I thought about...

I will try to get some photos on Tuesday. I have a wiring diagram that I used to trace out my charging problem. That is how I determined that I was missing the ground wire. I haven't seen any smoke coming from engine wiring. As for what happened to the original ground wire, I have no idea...

I removed the access cover (Inspection Plate?) from the transmission. As I was cleaning it, I found an amazing number of radiant cracks all over it. I would like to replace this part, but if I can't find one, I suppose I could have mine welded/repaired.